Thursday, October 5th
I've noticed that when I feel arrogant, thinking I'm going to surf really well for example, I tend to do whatever that activity is....terribly.
The waves were supposed to be amazing Friday, I caught myself thinking arrogantly Thursday so I took a nap, ate a healthy dinner and went to bed early.
Friday, October 6th
I thought my arrogance yesterday might be due to not having performed any plyos in a few weeks. Like my overconfident state was an indicator I was under doing something. The waves were amazing this morning, but opted for the gym instead to prepare.
Cable Internal Rotation 50lbs x 20 each x 2 sets
Roundhouse Kicks to Heavy Bag x 10 each x 4 sets
BOSU Ball Med Ball Chest Pass 8lbs x 15 x 4 sets
Endless Rope 45 seconds x 643 feet, ?, ?, ?
Box Jumps 30" x 10, 33" x 10, 36" x 10 x 2 sets
Overhead Band Pull-Aparts Red + Yellow x 20, Red + Green x 20 x 3 sets
Lying Back Extensions [abs and glutes contracted] x 90 seconds, 90, 90, 55
DB External Rotation 5lbs x 18, 16
Surfing 1.5 hours - caught a ton of good waves, surfed at a high level, even got a few compliments. It was crazy good.
Surfing 1.5 hours - caught a few good ones, then nothing the next 45 minutes. I used the same board as my early session, but it felt too small. There were 25 wave sets but 40/50 people. That arrogance reared its head again, right before I started catching nothing. I lived on protein bars all day, so the only thing I could think of was shitty nutrition.
Saturday, October 7th
The day from Heaven.
It was absolutely firing. I saw maybe 100 barrels get made, 5-6 foot waves, pros out (they were out yesterday too, but these conditions were incredible). I've never been out in waves like this, but it was incredibly intimidating. I noticed that about 30 yards inside was a smaller wave, and caught a bunch of killer single-turn waves. As the tide dropped that wave shifted, then disappeared and my wave count slowed way down.
Session 1: 1.5-2 hours
I was fried, but remembering my error of yesterday I cooked up a feast, recharged and went back out. Hit up a different break, which was smaller but had a fun look to it. I caught maybe 4 waves, but holy fuck I have never had the flow I had this session.
Session 2: 45 minutes
Sunday, October 8th
Surfing 1.5 hours
Back to the same break as yesterday, the blessed wind had shifted from gentle offshores to strong onshores - massively decreasing the wave quality. I caught a couple good ones, got caught up in some mental bullshit where I then missed 20/25 waves in a row, cleared my head and caught 3 screamers (I was literally yelling). They weren't as good as yesterday's faces, but the drops were so satisfying.
Thank you God for the waves, and all the setbacks to my surfing and training and attitude to life.. I've gone back to the drawing board over and over again, stumbling around in the dark and the last couple days of surfing makes it so worth it. Thank you!
"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie