Wednesday, November 29th
Surfing 2.5 hours
Surfed North B on a good NW swell at a 0 ft tide with a slack wind. Endless clean waves for 2 hours and as the tide crept up the waves slowed down slightly.
After two days of great waves my obliques are sore, only happened I think one other time from surfing.
Got my first fin drifting backside snap, and my best turn in a month after a few pumps to gain speed into a flawless section. Thanks God!
Oh, and I was working on getting my feet better positioned, but I still can improve on this - which will mean better potential surfing.
Thursday, November 30th
Meditation 15 minutes [noting emotions and letting go] + Compassion Meditation
Felt pretty damn tired, but I swung by the beach and the waves looked fun at a spot called Middles. This wave doesn't break that often and is a long A-frame. Today was low tide and a big Northwest swell. So I get my friend to come with me and he says the waves are breaking too infrequently to make it worth his while. I paddled out anyways, the current pulled me right out and I immediately bagged a wave, then 45 minutes later another one and an insider. Super happy.
Saw this picture earlier today and saving it for posterity, it's my favorite surfer Dave Rastovich doing a perfect bottom turn