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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:37 pm 
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Monday, December 18th

DB Bench 60's x 10 x 4 sets
and
Box Jumps 30" x 10 x 4 sets

Seated Cable Row 42.5lbs x 20, 50lbs x 20, 15, 42.5 lbs x 15
and
Standing Cable Row - Elbows Up 30lbs x 20, 20, 15; 25lbs x 15

Lying Back Extensions x 1.5 min's, +2lb db's x 1.5 min's, BW x 1.5 mins x 2 sets

Weird ass workout. I had a lot of other stuff planned (core and upper plyo's, a dynamic warm-up, some lower body stabilizers, zero upper body strength work) - but this is what I felt like doing.

Meditation 15 minutes + Compassion Meditation

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 3:28 am 
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Tuesday, December 19th

Note: my upper back got nicely sore from the row combo.

Slow Roundhouse Kicks x 20 x 4 sets
and
Seated Adduction 60lbs x 20, 15, 15, 15 (sat up high enough above the seat so that my hips and knees stayed even)

Band TKE - Purple x 20 x 4 sets (left leg lost a lot of strength)
and
1-Leg Leg Extension 30lbs x 15, 25lbs x 12, 12, 12

DB Shin Raise 27.5lbs x 20, 35lbs x 20, 15, 15

Surfing 2 hours

Experimenting with some different mental cues. I surfed tiny Windansea on a wavestorm and towards the end sat with the pack. Caught a few decent ones, but wasn't much to do on my board besides try to milk it for time. Saw some kids on short boards and a guy on a big fish do some good turns.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 8:06 pm 
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Thursday, December 21st

Meditation 15 minutes [think love on the inhale, kindness on the exhale] + Compassion Meditation

Hanging Knee Raise w/ TVA x 12, 8, 6, 5
and
Full-Contact Twist w/ TVA x 10, 8, 6, 6
and
Serratus Push-Up x 20 x 4 sets

Blablabla, trying to help my surfing, blablabla.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 3:33 am 
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Friday, December 22nd

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow by Side 50lbs x 20 x 2 sets

Seated Cable Row 50lbs x 15 x 4 sets
and
Standing Cable Row - Elbows Up 30lbs x 20 x 4 sets

DB Seated Shoulder Press [lower to head height] 35's x 15, 12, 10, 10

BB Standing Shoulder Press [lower to head height] 75lbs x 10, 7, 8, 8

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow Up and Adducted 25lbs x 20 x 2 sets

Got a great pump in upper chest, shoulders and arms during db shoulder press. PR is 150 x 1 on standing press. Looking like my program has been sucking on that end.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 7:48 pm 
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Saturday, December 23rd

Surfing 1.5 hours

Small, glassy. Just me and 1-2 other people out. Chilling in Bird Rock.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Sunday, Christmas Eve!

Glute Bridge with Alternating Leg Extension x 15 each x 4 sets

Band TKE - Purple x 20 each x 4 sets
and
1-Leg Leg Extension 30lbs x 14, 13, 12, 12 (finally, progress!)

Slow Roundhouse Kicks x 20 x 4 sets
and
Concept 2 Standing Adduction x 6, 6, 5, 5

Was reviewing my training and noticed some clues that might lead to better results.

I had an extra good day of surfing after combining calves and shins on the same day, and an extra fast day of paddling after doing rear delts and rotator cuff on the same day.

This leg stabilizer day has been tricky, and I have yet to plug posterior glutes in to the mix with adduction/abduction and vmo/leg extensions - two combo's I know that are good. Instead it was wall slides (random upper body stabilizer) or shins (not balanced with the calves) or something else.

Feel good after today, but I'll see how the surfing goes.

Surfing 1.5 hours

Surfed my favorite local beach, where I ended up knowing all but one surfer. Everyone but me had longboards and they were teasing me for my small board choice. Well, lo and behold, my training kicked in and I caught a bunch of waves on a small day. After I came in, one of the homies told me to grab a beer from his bag, so I chugged a Bud Light and enjoyed the day.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:07 am 
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Monday, Christmas :heart:

Surfing 30 minutes

Small day again, but more power and better sections than yesterday. Although my stance was off (too far forwards, too wide), I surfed surprisingly well. There’s a situation I get in, where I have a decent amount of speed and go for a critical turn and the increased gravity causes me to pressure my front foot and I bury the nose and fall. Today, I felt that happening, but I also felt that I had more strength than normal on my trailing leg, so I pushed my back foot down and came out of the turn.

I would say the leg stabilizer combo from yesterday is a success, there were a couple other things that went well today: viewing one wave differently and choosing a different line because of it, getting a good end section carve, and making a snap to re-entry that I normally wouldn’t finish.

I did drop in on a kid who was too deep (I was too deep as well and down the line about 20 feet from him), but it was a dick move.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 7:58 pm 
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Tuesday, December 26th

Stretching

Cable Internal Rotation 50lbs x 20 x 2 sets

Chin-Ups x 8, 6, 5, 4
and
DB Bench 65's x 10, 10, 10, 8

DB Alt. Curls 35's x 7, 5; 30's x 7, 5
and
Push-Downs 50lbs x 15, 15, 15, 10

Cable Reverse Fly's - Palms Down [setting shoulders] 70lbs x 12, 55lbs x 15, 12, 10

DB External Rotation 7.5lbs x 20, 10

Surfing 1 hour

Good waves by my house. I took my smallest board (which gets surfed next to never) and had a blast. The kid from yesterday that I dropped in was there, I apologized for dropping in on him and he said no worries he wasn't gonna make that wave anyways. But I told him I owed him a wave so I called him into a couple, including a good one he was super happy about. Right after the wave he was happy about, I paddled for the best wave I saw all day. I was surprised I even was going for it (looked scary). I got to my feet with my board angled down the line and.....immediately slid out and fell on my face. The guys in the line-up said "ohhhhh, that was a good one" and "that was a wave." I should have dropped straight down the face, but I didn't.

After that was a stunning sunset, and when I got to my car to change a cute girl smiled and waved at me. Solid day!

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:01 pm 
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Wednesday, December 27th

DB Shin Raise 35lbs x 20, 15, 15, 15
and
Seated Calf Raise 55lbs x 15, 12, 12, 12

TRX Squat Hold x 60 seconds, 60, 75, 75

Stability Ball Wall 1-Leg Squat x 15 each x 4 sets

Lying Hamstring Curls 100lbs x 6, 6, 6, 4
and
45 Degree Lower Back +45lbs x 8 x 4 sets

Stretching

Notes: first two sets of squat holds were air squats, but it felt shitty on my knees. When I switched to the TRX, I noticed that my L femur was externally rotated (noted the same thing on the 1-leg ones). I corrected for it and it felt better. The stability ball squats smoked my quads, right in the area that I mentioned was weak in a post about surfing and quad development.

Note 2: the day after my lower back feels a bit stiff or sore and I stretched a lot more hamstrings and low back than I normally do.

Surfing 1.5 hours

Drove around for a while with my buddy, trying to figure out where to go. Ended up picking a place near my house that is good on a high tide, but this was a low/medium tide creeping upwards. It was really fun, and progressively got better. My cousin, who's a rock climber with an aesthetically pleasing style, said it looked like I was twitchy on my turns instead of drawing them out. He doesn't surf, but from the small amount of footage I've seen of me he sounds right on the money.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 1:47 pm 
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Friday, December 29th

Stretch Hip Flexors and Lying Twist

45 Degree Side Bend w/ TVA x 12, 12, 8, 4 each

Leg Raise w/ TVA x 15, 10, 8

Hanging Knee Raise w/ TVA x 8, 6, 6

Starting with the third set today, my back (which has felt off since my last workout) felt great. All the tightening of the core seemed to support it.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 9:14 pm 
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Saturday, December 30th

Compassion Meditation + Meditation [Breathe Slow and Deep] 15 minutes + Gratitude Reflection

My cousin's 5 year old daughter elected to join me and my other cousin to meditate. We did a kid friendly and shorter version of the above which she enjoyed. Meditating in their rental house garden surrounded by chirping birds no doubt helped too!

We finished and walked her inside, then did the full practice I've listed above. About half-way through, my cousin's 8 year old son comes out yelling that he's gonna join us. Then proceeds to shove me hard in the chest a bunch of times while shouting my name. Finally he claps in my ear and leaves. I had kept up my breath practice throughout all of this and did my best until the timer rang.

Yesterday, after he stomped on my foot hard for no reason, I had told him that if he does anything like that again, I'm shunning him for an hour, but after finishing my meditation I just felt bad for him.

I'd love to say I talked to him eloquently and kept my promise, while doing it kindly, but no.

The only good thing is that I had discussed the arrow sutra prior to our meditation, which says a meditator experiences one arrow when something bad happens (for example your car gets stolen) and the normal person experiences two or more arrows (complaining about it, wondering why it had to happen to you, etc.). Me and my cousin didn't discuss our interruption at all, so I am happy to have one less arrow.

That said, if you've read my angry Last Jedi reviews, I've been creating more arrows for myself lately. Perhaps I'll be more conscious of that for today.

Surfing 1.5 hours

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


Last edited by Bram on Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Quote:
the arrow sutra ... says a meditator experiences one arrow when something bad happens (for example your car gets stolen) and the normal person experiences two or more arrows (complaining about it, wondering why it had to happen to you, etc.).
That's a nice way to think about it. I try to experience just "one arrow" at random annoying occurrences that drop out of the sky from time to time on everyone. Like the airline misplaces your luggage for a day, or whatever. But I didn't have those words (above) for it. Nice.

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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:09 am 
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Glad you liked it and thanks for reading Jim.

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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 4:10 pm 
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Sunday, New Year's Eve

Dynamic Warm-Up

Box Jumps 30" x 10, 33" x 10 x 2 sets
and
Endless Rope x 642 feet, 638 feet, 618 feet

45 Degree Side Plank +10lbs x 1 minute x 3 sets
and
Med Ball Chest Pass 6lbs x 20 x 3 sets

KB Swing 36lbs x 20, 44lbs x 20, 15

Stretching 15 minutes

Notes: abs working crazy hard on swings. Side plank felt dumb in this workout.

Meditation 15 minutes [breathing in and out slow]

Monday, January 1st

Dancing 30 minutes

Wouldn't normally note that I went dancing, but very flexible and dynamic. And had a super fun time.

Tuesday, January 2nd

DB Bench 70's x 12, 8, 6
and
DB Side Bend w/ TVA 55lbs x 15, 15, 12

DB Seated Shoulder Press 35's x 12, 12, 10
and
DB Farmer's Walk 45's x 1.5 minutes

Cable Leaning Overhead Triceps Extension 42.5lbs x 15 x 3 sets

DB Lying External Rotation 7.5lbs x 20, 5lbs x 15

DB Seated External Rotation 5lbs x 12 x 2 sets

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:23 am 
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Thursday, January 4th

Compassion Meditation + Meditation 15 minutes

Miserable meditating, except when noting what I was thinking about (and that still wasn't that easy/enjoyable). Did something different every 5 minutes because my focus was so funky.

Surfing 1.5 hours

Long-ass introspection a-comin'....

I've noticed that in my day to day life I struggle mightily with compulsive behaviour: over-talking, staying up too late, over-thinking shit, etc.

Lately I've focused on avoiding desire. Desire to do anything - rage out on a friend, eat more chocolate, sell people on personal training.

And it has been great!

Yesterday, my visiting family was picking fights with me - I got slightly drawn into one situation, but disengaged before I got anything more than annoyed and avoided the other (I could hear the thoughts accelerating in my mind and would just recognize it as a place I did NOT want to be).

Then my buddy showed up 2 hours late, which killed my opportunity to surf. He kept texting every 30-60 minutes, to say he was running late.
And the anger was mounting!

But I kept reminding myself "every time you rage out on a friend, you fuck a friendship up." I've known this guy for 11 years and he's been nothing but a good guy. So I just played video games and when we finally met up, it turns out his grandpa died and he's been spending his entire vacation fighting a cold, sleeping in a house with 15 relatives and writing a eulogy or some other funeral related task. And we had a good time hanging out.

After he left and I was exceptionally productive (oddly so).

Okay, so avoiding desire is good, right?

Well, it sucks balls for surfing. I went out with that mentality today and surfed like shit. People were paddling around me, taking all the waves. And I felt totally out of sync on the one wave I caught.

So about half-way through I went back to my "surfing" mentality - stuff to keep me in the moment. And I surfed great! I might look like a goofy bastard on the board, but I got "good feeling" turns and kept my position on the peak (instead of being paddled around like a buoy). I'm feeling the surf high as I type.

And as I came back in I went back to my "avoiding desire" mentality. I just had a great chess game against my cousin prior to my next training session. So surfing is special and requires a certain mind-set, and so is the rest of life. The plan is to bounce between the two philosophies - one for surfing or a few other activites, one for everything else.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:27 pm 
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Friday, November 5th

Quick jog along some sandy cliffs - felt great to run on a natural, soft surface.

---

Went to the Grotto, a combination yoga studio and bouldering gym. They also had a bad-ass outdoor gym with all sorts of grip implements to hang from.

Wall Slides x 20 x 2 sets (felt so good to do)

Pull-Ups x 8, 7, 5
into
Bodyweight Rows x 15, 15, 12 (done from a dip station)
into
DB Alt. Curls 30's x 10 each, 10 each, 7 each
into
TRX Reverse Fly's x 10, 10, 12
into
Hanging Knee Raises w/ TVA x 10, 8, 6 (they had these terrific canvas straps that were very comfortable)

Saturday, November 6th

Dynamic Warm-Up: Twists, Ba Gua, Capoeira or Walking Lunges, High Knees (high knees felt good)

Cable Internal Rotation 50lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

Box Jumps 30" x 10 x 4 sets
and
Clapping Push-Ups x 8, 6, 5, 5

Band TKE - Purple x 20 each x 4 sets

Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 4 sets

Roundhouse Kicks to a Bag x 10 each x 4 sets (worked on driving knee away from hip on left side, made it stronger!)
and
Clapping Pull-Ups x 3, 2, 2, 2

KB Swings 16kg x 20, 20kg x 20, 24kg x 15, 12

Cable Internal Rotation - Seated 7.5lbs x 20, 16 (drove my elbow away from my shoulder socket and felt better)

Stretching

----

Surfing 1.5 hours

Surfed exactly the way I'd like to be able to. Fell on a few waves that didn't look makeable, so I need to stay conscious of the that and be aware of how the wave is looking down from me. Paddled fast, stayed dynamic, felt loose. Caught a lot but never at the expense of anyone else.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:34 pm 
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Sunday, November 8th

Surfing 1.5 hours

Felt sluggish today, I could feel it on the beach as I was stretching. It mostly worked itself out over the course of the session, but some foam rolling at home and a dynamic warm-up might have made a big difference. Caught a bunch of fun waves on a glassy day with just my buddy out for half the time. Did eat it on a great wave by burying my nose. Although it wasn't as flowy as yesterday, my overall attitude and performance makes me happy.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:07 am 
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Monday, January 8th

Surfing 1.25 hours

There's a spot I know about that on a combo swell (a NW and SW swell), gets really good on a high tide.

I had a lax schedule today, but the waves by my house were so-so and I dicked around waiting to go out.

I showed up at the combo spot and noticed a nice set rolling in, with no one out. Glassy day. Perfect conditions, almost spiritual, with clouds like monstrous spaceships and a flat light punctuated by occasional gentle rain drops.

Well, it just got better and better. One guy joined me and we traded waves having a blast. I pushed it to go to meditation class because I saw these beautiful lefts rolling in and I kept choosing the shorter ones that were mixed in. My last wave was this gorgeous left with a sexy carve into a fin slide, then two nice snaps.

Compassion Meditation

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 10:01 pm 
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Wednesday, January 9th

Meditation 15 minutes [noting]

Noteworthy only for doing it on a sidewalk on a not-too-busy street. The distractions (cars driving, people walking by) may have helped it go by faster and contributed to my focus.

Band Side Walk - Grey x 20 each side x 4 sets
and
Seated Adduction 60lbs x 15 x 4 sets

Lying Glute Extension w/ Single Leg Extension x 12, 10, 9, 8 each side
and
Band TKE - Purple x 20 each x 4 sets

Leg Press 320lbs x 12, 10, 10, 10
and
Standing DB Calf Raise 27.5lbs x 20, 30lbs x 15, 35lbs x 15, 40lbs x 15

DB Walking Lunges 25's x 12, 10, 8, 8 each
and
DB Decline Bench Shin Raise 27.5lbs x 20 x 3 sets, 30lbs x 20

Lying Hamstring Curl 70lbs x 8, 60lbs x 8 x 3 sets
and
Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 4 sets

45 Degree Lower Back Extensions x 14, 11, 9, 8

I had noticed my last leg workout that my left leg has a tendency to external rotate, I worked on keeping it neutral on the lunges, hamstrings, front kicks and low back extensions. By the end my left glute was exhausted (hence the much lighter than normal loads on my posterior chain).

Also, both glutes were much more tired than normal - generally I can knock out 4 sets of 15 each on the glute extensions. Today, even the first set they were noticeably tired (was it from doing them after the glute abduction work?).

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:57 pm 
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Thursday, January 11th

Meditation 15 minutes [impermanence] + Compassion Meditation

DB Bench 70's x 10, 10, 8, 8
and
DB Farmer's Walk 45's x 90 seconds, 80, 60; 40's x 60 seconds

DB Seated Shoulder Press 30's x 15, 35's x 12, 12, 10
and
Leaning Overhead Rope Triceps Extension 42.5lbs x 20, 50lbs x 10, 42.5lbs x 12, 10

DB Side Lying External Rotation 7.5lbs x 20 x 2 sets (finally a little progress)

DB Seated External Rotation 5lbs x 12, 10

Stretching Chest-Bent, Chest-Straight, Biceps x 3 each, Triceps

Was supposed to do obliques today, but felt over it. Will try to add to abs.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 9:41 pm 
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Friday, January 12th

Was planning to do back/biceps today, but my body doesn't feel up for it, so just did some things I could have added yesterday.

Scap Push-Ups x 4 sets

Cable Neck Harness - Extension 15lbs x 20, 15
and
Cable Neck Harness - Flexion 15lbs x 20, 15

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 4:57 am 
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Saturday, January 13th

Surfing 4.5 hours

Interesting day.

The waves were good, but crowded with other surfers. I caught a few fun ones and then some negative things started happening, involving other surfers, and subsequently after getting bugged by it: poor wave selection.

So, I kinda paddled around for a while - trying to figure out how or what I needed to do to get myself out of this bad headspace.

I settled on a few things and near immediately I started picking good waves and had nothing but a positive experience the rest of the time with other surfers.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:29 pm 
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Sunday, January 14th

Surfing 3 hours

Heavily debated which board to take today, a smaller one with skimpy fins, or a bigger one with larger fins. Took the smaller one and was sliding out on a few of my turns (an unwanted thing).

So I paddled over to another break that was bigger, but not as fast, and the board worked perfect.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:54 am 
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Monday, January 15th

Meditation 5 minutes [triangle breath: 5 in, hold for 5, 5 out] + Compassion Meditation

Wall Slides x 20 x 4 sets
and
Chin-Ups x 9, 5, 5, 5

BB Incline Bench Rows 85lbs x 15, 10, 75lbs x 12, 10
and
Seated Cable Rows 52.5lbs x 15, 12, 12, 12

Machine Reverse Fly's 55lbs x 18, 15, 15, 15
and
DB Alt. Hammer Curls 25's x 12, 9, 7; 22.5's x 7

Supposed to do abs and obliques, but over it.

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"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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 Post subject: Re: Bram's workout log
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 3:34 pm 
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Tuesday, January 16th

Hanging Knee Raise w/ TVA x 9, 6, 6, 5 (zero progress again, if not straight old regression)

Bench Knee Raise w/ TVA x 12, 9; Alt. Knee Raise x 5, 3

DB Side Bend w/ TVA 45lbs x 15, 15, 12, 12

Cable Twist w/ TVA 15lbs x 15, 15, 12; 10lbs x 12

The TVA work on abs and obliques has a big carryover to my surfing performance, but the current volume levels (one exercise a week for abs, one for obliques x 4 sets each) has not led to any increase in strength on the exercises. Additionally, I noted during my previous surf session, that in certain positions on the wave (high speed, short time window turns) I feel that I lack the core strength to attempt anything besides rushing through them. For the past few years I've limited myself to either a lateral oblique (like a side bend) or a rotational (a twist) per workout, it was based on a fear of excessive hypertrophy on my sides from high volume training. So today I threw that out to see if I can squeeze a little more out of myself.

Surfing 1 hour

Surfed a spot that only breaks on a big swell (and I'd guess at low tide). This is my third time out at this spot, but the first time I've caught anything. There was about ten people out, catching some beautiful waves or close-outs, depending on the set.

A big set came that rolled me, but it set me up for an attempt on a small insider which I made and I was really happy about. Struggled through a few more sets and then, after a fellow surfer failed to get into it, I made a big wave. As I swung for it, I could see that the shoulder looked like it was going to close-out, so I just rode it straight down, hoping the whole way that I wouldn't bury my nose. Made it to the bottom, then the white water crashed around me and after a second the turbulence threw me off.

Surfing has been a very difficult journey (my first year I never caught a wave, my second year I caught two waves on the same day, my third year I began to catch with regularity). I've had to go back to the well many, many times both mentally and physically. I'll feel like I'm doing everything right and then go out for 3 hours and not catch a single wave. And then I'll see a slight change that I can make - a shift in mental focus, an extra exercise - then apply it and go back to having fun again.

Today's surf session was a nice reminder of when things come together how good it can feel.

I texted my friend John afterwards to tell him about my session and to thank him for the board I rode (a gift about 15 years ago) and he said "My pleasure. You've become a great ambassador for the sport. I'm proud of you" - I'd like to remember that.

_________________
"Believe strongly that the world is on your side if you keep true to what is best in you." - Master Carlos Gracie


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