Thursday, September 24th — Surfing and Accessories
Did 2 sets of:
Upper Traps, Lower Traps, Rear Delts, Serratus, Radial Deviation, Ulnar Deviation, Internal Rotation, External Rotation, Neck Flexion, Neck Extension
Glute Bridge w/ Alt. Leg Extension, Slow Front Kicks, Band TKE, Slow Back Kicks, Band Adduction, Band Abduction, Calf Raise, Shin Raise, Ankle Inversion, Ankle Eversion
Got kinda panicky with this big swell and tossed in every stabilizer I could think of.
Surfing 1 hour
Surfed North County on a date with a novice surfer. The waves were chill, but good for her skill level (the place I surfed yesterday was firing). I got some fun flowy rides, had a nice time with her, and passed on a couple helpful tips.
Friday, September 25th — Surfing
Surfing 20 minutes
Hopped in the water to wish my friend a happy birthday and surfed a couple windy, soft waves.
The swell went from small to pumping in the past few hours. Going to check some spots.
Surfing 5 hours
Ended up at Big Rock, which was working nicely and not too crowded.
That gigantic stabilizer workout tired my upper body, but seemed to help my knees, hips, and ankles.
Regardless of my surf performance, which was fine — not great — my attitude in the water remained positive.
People did all the things that usually trigger me, and I, eventually in some cases, responded with friendliness and compliments.
I know my mental checklist isn’t finished, but it’s come a long ways:
Feel, connect, have fun, love, be excellent, let go
Oh, and when I came in, in the dark, this random girl offered me a beer and we talked for a while.
"When you seek it, you cannot find it.” — Zen riddle