Saturday, October 27th
Had an easy night in: a big meal of sausage, rice, broccoli plus 2lbs of cut watermelon; did some reading and turned the lights off early.
Woke up feeling pumped up.
Stretch Hip Flexors, Biceps, Calves
Box Jumps 42" x 10 x 4 sets
Clapping Push-ups x 10 x 4 sets
Roundhouse Kicks to Bag x 10 each x 4 sets
Clapping Pull-ups x 2, 1, 1, 1
45 Degree Low Back Extension - Isometric (knees softly bent, lumbar in good position) x 60, 60, 60, 40 seconds
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Quads, Groin - Butterfly, Seated Hamstring, Seated Straddle Sides and Front, Lying Twist, Abs, Biceps, Lats, Chest, Triceps, Neck, Cow Faced Pose (could do on one side and almost on other)
Article on cow faced pose:
San Diego was hit with a massive fog bank this morning. I could hardly see a tree a block away. After finishing at the gym and then cruising through a couple different surf spots the fog just began to burn off. I headed to where I thought it would be best - Secret Spot #3. Some breaks handle pure swells (waves from just one direction) and this place handles combo's well, and that is what we had today.
Surfing 1.75 hours
The waves were outstanding looking, you had a right point that was reeling off waves and an A-frame wave to the north. The right was crowded so I headed north. The first 45 minutes seemed like a repeat of yesterday: always someone deeper, or in the way on the take-off. Finally I got a large, but mushy wave - did a couple slow cutbacks, but was still amped.
Re-applied sunscreen and finally got into a large wave with good shape, managing a few fun but non-critical turns. Then a big left that had me going "what am I thinking taking this." I dropped in, set the line and watched the wave bending and walling up. I didn't stall, but as I neared the end of the walled up section I could see the wave was vertical and throwing just behind me. Sure enough, a fellow surfer said the wave was barreling the entire way behind me. BUT! Now I know what a barreling wave looks like and I can attempt to stall, drag my arm, step on the tail, something. Psyched.
Went back out and got a couple really fun set wave rights. The best was a couple chill turns, then a hard snap that I took back towards the power source and into another cutback.
Although I only got 4-5 waves in nearly 2 hours, they were all quality - on a glassy day with good energy from the people in the water. Came in grinning ear-to-ear.