IGX "...overflowing with foulmouthed ignorance."

IGX "...overflowing with foulmouthed ignorance."
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 2:44 am 
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Friday, November 16th

Surfing 4.25 hours

Went to an a-frame reef break (a-frame in that the wave peels both directions, not just one), nearby my apartment. The moment I saw the waves I started running back to my car to grab my board. I shoved a tube of sunscreen down the front of my wetsuit and was treated to some outstanding waves: 3-5 foot, occasionally larger, plenty of sections to do turns on. The crowd started at 6 people and dwindled to just myself for 45 minutes, then built back up to 12 or so.

I experimented with further mental cues, giving "humility," and "joy," a go today. These did lead to me surfing better on my frontside, doing deeper bottom turns and making some nice carves - including a section that I thought was closing out, but I hit so hard it rebounded me to the next section. But I felt shaky on both frontside and backside waves and way, way, way too caught up in my head.

There's some quote that goes like this: take everything that disturbs your peace of mind and throw it out. My current mental checklist (sans today's additions) makes almost zero mark on my day to day, but adding anything else.....fuck....haha, I dunno. A little better turn on a wave doesn't seem worth the anxiety.

----

Further thoughts.

So this was an interesting session....through that thought of humility and joy, I was able to will myself deeper (humility I think allowed for me to yield to the power of the ocean, joy pushed me to go deep into my turns because it's a wonderful thing to explore the entirety of the wave). Although it wasn't perfect, I was closer to my ideal.

One wave in particular though stands out.

I took off late and thought I might fall because I was right in the breaking part of the wave. I made the drop and as I entered my bottom turn, I could tell I was in harmony with the wave. I knew ahead of time that this carve was going to feel particularly good. Sure enough, with little effort I turned off the top and back down the wave.

In the past, on a particular wave I was riding, I felt like the Ocean was playing a song and I was near the rhythm of that song, but it was off - as if the Ocean was singing in a different, unfamiliar, language and I was trying to harmonize with it. But on this wave, it felt like the Ocean was playing a song and I was playing along with it. As if the Ocean was on drums and I was on guitar, playing together.

It feels weird to note this harmony, as it relates to something that I feel I am abandoning and only had fully for that one moment. But this harmony also feels important.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 1:18 am 
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Sunday, November 18th

Dynamic Warm-Up: Broomstick Twist x 10 each, Ba Gua Tea Exercise #1 x 8 each, Walking Lunge x 10 each, Knee to Chest x 10 each x 4 rounds

Kneeling Cable Reverse Fly High-Low 30lbs x 20 x 2 sets, Low-High 15lbs x 15, Neutral 20lbs x 20
and
Glute Bridge with Alternating Leg Extension x 15 each x 4 sets

Box Jumps 42" x 10 x 4 sets
and
Clapping Pull-Ups x 2, 1; TRX Row - Isometric in Arm Bent Position x 43, 45 seconds each

1-Leg Box Jumps 15" x 10, 18" x 10, 21" x 10, 24" x 5 each
and
Medicine Ball Chest Pass 6lbs x 20 x 4 sets

Push-Up Plank w/ TVA x 60, 50, 50, 40 seconds
and
Side Plank over Box with Feet Lifted x 1 minute each x 4 sets

Lying Neck Flexion x 40, 15
and
Lying Neck Rotation x 28, 14

Isometric Lying Low Back Extension x 50 seconds x 4 sets

Notes: Did Ba Gua Tea Exercise #2 for the final round of the warm-up and it didn't feel good to mix it up...last round of knee to chest was full ROM (nice!)....cable reverse fly's felt good (except the low-high....think 2 neutral and 2 either low-high or high-low), but made my upper body feel fatigued, do them at the end next time....pull-ups were really hard, and the claps were questionable at best...tucked chin on neck exercises, rounded back and squeezed glutes on back extensions...maybe side plank better over elevated swiss ball with a kettle bell to hold on to?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:58 am 
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Monday, November 19th

Surfing 1.5 hours

It was a really nice day at Windansea: overcast, no wind, fun waves. I caught 4 waves in my time, the first one was a little off. The second one I got 4 turns and was kind of grooving. The third one I got maybe 1 turn, but then fell out of sync. I waited for a long time and got a nice set wave. On this one, I dropped in deep with my back arm in a good position (elbow drawn back like an archer), eyed the lip of the wave and got a fun carve off the top, then back into a smaller turn. I paddled in and had the hugest smile on the beach. Literally jumping up and down with glee.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2018 10:52 pm 
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Wednesday, November 21st

Surfing 1.5 hours

Small, but another stunning day. Clear water, eel grass swaying, orange Garibaldi cruising around. Got a bunch of fun waves, talked to some cool people. Even got cat-called by a cute girl when I was putting on my wetsuit.

Went to grab lunch and they mistakenly gave me two salads instead of one, nice!

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:19 am 
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Thanksgiving, November 22nd

No surf, no work, cancelled plans...

Skateboarding 30 minutes (cruised to Starbucks, off to a park to meditate, down to the beach to watch the sunset and home)

Yoga 10-15 minutes (nice sequence: warrior 1 to 2 to triangle, standing pigeon to standing quad, tree)

Meditation 30 minutes

Savasana 6 minutes

----

Cool meditation: "do nothing." Literally, just sit and breathe. If your mind wanders, don't do anything about it. If your leg itches, don't do anything. If you scratch your leg without thinking about it, don't do anything once you notice. I can't remember the last time I smiled so much meditating...or the last time my mind had so many moments of stillness.

Tried the "do nothing" mentality afterwards as I skated to the beach. On the plus side I was dramatically more efficient - I tend to carve for no reason which slows me down, or overuse my arms. On the downside, I almost ate shit, from under-turning and hitting a sketchy patch of sand and chunky asphalt at higher speed. Not sure what I think of it.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 7:55 pm 
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Saturday, November 24th

Upper Body and Core Stretches

Cable Reverse Fly's 20lbs x 20, 25lbs x 15

Cable Reverse Fly's - High to Low 30lbs x 20 x 2 sets

Cable Reverse Fly's - Low to High 15lbs x 15 x 2 sets

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow by Side 50lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

Dumbbell External Rotation - Side Lying 5lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

Decided that since it was Saturday and I still didn't feel like lifting, I might as well make it a rest week. After a few weeks without internal/external rotation work, it seems missed from keeping my overall well-being high. Felt nice to add it back in.

----

Surfing 30 minutes

Went to a spot by my house, low-tide and mixed up, but there were still good waves to be had. After contemplating my surf philosophy in a thread on the Free Speech forum, I settled on adding "humility" to the list. A fellow surfer I had an issue with was out there and I was able to hopefully resolve it ("catching any fun waves? Are we good? No bad vibes?"). Caught one little wave, but I was proud of myself as I set up extra long to get a snap on it. Then a smaller set wave at the end, that I surfed into the beach with 3-4 turns on it.

Shoulder (left) feels great after, following a few days of soreness. I'll attribute it to today's gym time.

Oh, and as I was changing after I got hooted at by another girl (2 sessions in a row). I've dropped to the lightest I've been in over a decade (205), haha seems like a good weight.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:03 am 
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Monday, November 26th

Surfing 1 hour

Pretty small conditions, but no one out. Got maybe 20 waves. My buddy Theo joined me, and another guy eventually.

Light Stretches + Meditation 15 minutes ["breathing in" on the breath in, "breathing out" on the breath out] + Compassion Meditation

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow by Side 50lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

Cable Internal Rotation - Reverse Cuban Press 30lbs x 20, 30lbs x 20R/11L

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:23 am 
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Tuesday, November 27th

Surfing 1.25 hours

Took a couple friends to surf a secret spot, it was fun and just us plus one other person.

The waves were 2 foot and smaller....and at one point nothing came for 30 minutes. Tried a host of different focal points....oddly enough "non-violence" seemed to work quite well. On the waves I did that on, I paddled just enough to be in the heart of the wave on take-off and managed to get lots of speed and some nice turns considering the small size.

Also tried "non-striving" which seemed to work decently too.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:47 pm 
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Wednesday, November 28th

Surfing 2 hours

Big waves! Went to Tourmaline, which is a beginner's wave but can handle large swells. It looked like it wasn't receiving this swell particularly strongly, but within twenty minutes a large set was looming on the horizon, breaking further off shore than anyone was sitting.

Got a couple waves, then a lull where I just paddled around aimlessly, then a lot of waves.

Came in all happy with a surf high: the air smells fresher, my body feels lighter and just a general sense of peace and well-being.

----

Earlier I did Internal Rotation (hitting equal reps today on both arms) and a couple VMO exercises (terminal leg extensions and leg extensions) to hopefully prep my body.

And after surfing I taught meditation:

5 minutes each of: doing nothing, impermanence and compassion

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 2:06 am 
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San Diego was hit with a decent amount of rain which has kept me out of the Ocean the past few days (yesterday the surf looked fun). On top of that I have had no drive to workout at all.

Once again, I must admit defeat to my attempt at a high-volume training approach.

Looking at notes from the end of 2017 and with a couple tweaks, here's my new program (rotating through the six workouts, up to four a week, in no particular order):

1) Shoulder Press, Shoulder Press, Row, Row, Internal Rotation
2) Bench, Chin, Biceps, Triceps, Rear Delts, Internal/External Rotation
3) Dynamic Warm-Up, Explosive or Isometric - Upper Push, Upper Pull, Lower Push, Lower Pull, Core; External Rotation
4) Abs w/ TVA, Abs w/ TVA, Obliques w/TVA
5) Squats, Lunges, Hamstrings, Calves, Shin, Lower Back
6) VMO Exercise, Leg Extensions, Lateral Glutes, Adductors, Posterior Glutes

Nothing sexy about any of it, but I need to actually do my damn workouts to get anything out of them.

----

In my down time, I've been studying the surfing in this video. This guy is almost constantly below and behind the lip, taking all the speed the wave has to offer. Would like to figure out how to do that.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 5:54 pm 
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Monday, December 3rd - Overhead Press and Rows

Stretch Upper Body

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow by Side 50lbs x 20 x 2 sets

DB Standing Shoulder Press 20's x 12, 10, 8, 6
and
Seated Hammer Rows 45/45 x 15 x 4 sets

DB Seated Shoulder Press 30's x 12 x 4 sets
and
Standing Cable Row - Elbows Up 70lbs x 15, 12, 12, 12

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow on Knee 30lbs x 20 x 2 sets

Stretch Upper Body

Notes: 45 minutes to do this workout, it's a welcome improvement over the 80-120 minutes the last couple full workouts have taken

----

Body Scan (progressive relaxation starting at the toes then working your way up the body) + "Impermanence" Meditation 15 minutes + Compassion Meditation

I felt super good after doing this. But my class looked addled afterwards. 15 minutes is a long time to hang out with one's own mind. I remember when 5 minutes would leave me drenched in sweat and gripped with anxiety.

----

Inspired tonight, I did some reading on being "in flow": a sense of effortlessness and focus and exceptional performance.

Of the eight characteristics of a flow state, there are two things I feel I'm not addressing with my mental checklist:

a) setting goals
and
b) not over-doing my effort

So setting goals is easy (I'll just tell myself to set goals), learning how to be more efficient or more effortless will be tricky.

Some things I've tried to focus on to reduce my effort in the past include:

"do nothing" (good but dangerous), "relax" (okay), "be patient" (okay), and oddly enough "non-violence" (better than okay, but a little off still).

Make it look easy? Proper effort? Effortless?

As an added element, in the past I did a surf where the only goal (hah!) was on having "good vibes" in the water when surfing. That session I was super friendly and let people take waves even when I could have taken them myself. Worth adding back in - especially considering my irritation as of late with people.

Later, I spoke with my cousin Alex who's a talented rock climber. He said this about his climbing:

"When I climb, I think about exactly where I want to put my hand. I don't want to over-reach and then have my hand have to fall back down to the hold. And I do it calmly. Everything is very controlled and calm instead of rushed. Deliberate is another way to describe it."

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 8:49 pm 
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Tuesday, December 4th - Lower Body Stabilizers

Band TKE - Purple x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Standing Elevated Hamstring Stretch x 20-30 seconds each x 3 sets
and
Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets

Band Standing Straight-Leg Adduction - Red x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Band Standing Bent-Leg Adduction - Purple x 20 each x 3 sets

Upper Back on Bench: Glute Bridge Isometric x 90 seconds x 3 sets
and
Band Standing Reverse Leg Swing - Red x 20 each x 3 sets

----

Been studying this kid's surfing. He moves almost nothing except his back arm. Very cool high-level stuff:



Ran into Shawn, my 69-year old surf mentor. He told me I needed to get a big longboard, stand with my feet together in the middle of the board and do nothing but trim.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 7:35 pm 
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Wednesday, December 5th

Surfing 45 minutes

Tiny waves, water like glass, rain lightly falling. Got maybe 5 waves. But on one I tried to stall for a barrel...as I squatted down and looked up at the wall of water above me, there was something so beautiful about it that I couldn't help but let out a yelp of joy. Down the beach was another surfer and photographer and they immediately yipped back at me. Highlight of the session.

Meditation Class

Body Scan + Noting Meditation 5-10 minutes + Compassion Meditation

One lady showed up for her first class with a glass of champagne. Haha, nice! Later in the day I ran into a new student from Monday's class. I was worried because she high-tailed it out of there at the end. She said to the contrary that she had an errand to run, loved the class and that it was one of the reason's she joined the gym!

Thursday, December 6th - Upper Body

Meditation Class

Yoga 10 minutes + Noting Meditation 15 minutes + Savasana 2 minutes

Did today's class a bit differently. Did a few minutes of breathing before starting the noting meditation and had the class note emotional, physical and mental responses to each distraction from the breath. I noticed how much my thoughts, anxieties, arrogance and criticism are all an attempt to make myself feel whole. But that each one is artificial. Felt super relaxed after class. To the degree I was wondering if it was almost too much. I trained my next clients at the gym and felt so relaxed - like it was a rainy Sunday and I was sipping coffee on the couch instead of at work.

----

Stretching

Chin-Ups x 10, 7, 5, 5
and
DB Bench 60's x 10, 8, 5, 7

DB Alt. Curls 30's x 10, 8, 7, 6
and
Push-Downs 42.5lbs x 15, 12, 12, 12

Machine Reverse Flys - Palms Down 55lbs x 15, 15, 10, 40lbs x 10

DB Side Lying External Rotation 5lbs x 20, 5lbs x 20R/15L

Stretching

Notes: talked with one of my clients about proper grammar. "Those are Bram's dildos!" Or "Bram's dildo's are everywhere!" On another note, I can't help think that push-ups might be more helpful for my surfing than bench press because of their core/whole-body integration. I wiggle like crazy on a surfboard and perhaps I'd have more tightness with push-ups?

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


Last edited by Bram on Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 6:07 am 
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Friday, December 7th

Fuck I am sore from yesterday. Mostly triceps and rear delts.

Surfing 2.5 hours

It has rained really hard (and that is something rare to say in San Diego) and going out today was tempting the fates of sickness. But it was a stunning day and, man, do I love surfing. Went to Tourmaline with Frank the homie from New Jersey and we were each having a great time. I'm not saying the waves were stellar, it's just sometimes it's fucking rad to go out and do whatever floats your boat...or surfboard.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 1:33 am 
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Saturday, December 8th

Surfing 3.5 hours

Hahahah, what a session! Had a good hour of either eating shit (sometimes completely randomly) or never being in position towards the back end. The rest of the time your boy Brammy was laying down good turns on both rights and lefts...and feeling some extra synced-in harmony.

Forced myself to stick to my most recent, successful, surfing mantra. The moment where it went south was after catching a couple great waves in a row, I then began looking for recognition from someone for how fucking incredible I am hahah. Instant disconnect! But I was resolved to stay focused and not look for a solution.

Was surfing at the best wave in town - a reef break that peels in both directions. The lefts were shorter, steeper and bigger. The rights were the opposite. Both were so fun!!! Was a 285 NW swell....2.7 foot at 15 seconds

Meditation 15 minutes (focusing on the breath) + Nature Time 10 minutes

Noticed that a lot of my problems are caused by losing the moment and then thinking about something. Just staying focused on the breath, or the wave I was surfing, keeps me present. But when I start thinking about other stuff, like wanting recognition for my surfing, then I surf worse - sometimes terribly!

Lastly, the double posterior glute approach - bent-leg and straight leg - definitely helped my surfing. Stoked!

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


Last edited by Bram on Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Sunday, December 9th - Abs and Obliques

Flutter Kicks x 11 each, 9 each, 7 each, 5 each
Plank x 60 seconds, 45 seconds, 45 seconds, 30 seconds
Side Leg Lift and Hold x 60 seconds each, 45 seconds each, 35 seconds each, 30 seconds

Kept low-back flat, abs flexed and abs drawn in for all 3 exercises. I've done the back flat and abs drawn in, but never added the abs flexing, or at least not for a while...like 25 years ago in Karate. Flutter kicks were done with chest and head up, hands by sides pressing down. Planks from a push-up.

Immediately after my low back felt good! Not that my back feels bad mind you, just that it had a lot of support from this workout.

Surfing 2 hours

Same spot as yesterday, but as I was dicking around and doing abs I got out about 2 hours after I should have: windy, gloomy and smaller than yesterday. Rode my friend's hyped 7'3" (lots of people have ridden this board and spoken well of it). Although every left I took buried me in white wash and knocked me over....or simply closed out...the rights were fire. On two or three waves I glanced down the line, glanced at the white wash and did a hooking cutback into the pocket which set me up for a snap. The rest of the time I was just cruising around.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 1:22 am 
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Monday, December 10th - Upper Body Stabilizers

Even though I told myself to keep it to six workouts, my fidgety mind threw this together. Remains to be seen if it's a valid addition.

Machine Reverse Flys 55lbs x 20, 18, 16, 14
and
DB Shrugs 35's x 20, 20, 15, 15

Scap Push-Ups x 20, 1-Arm Scap Push-Ups x 10 each, 10R/8L, 2-Arm Scap Push-Ups x 15
and
Dip Bar Reverse Shrugs x 20, 20, 15, 15

BB Radial Deviation 9's x 20 x 2 sets
and
BB Ulnar Deviation 9's x 20 x 2 sets

Lying Neck Flexion x 25, 14
and
Lying Neck Rotation x 24, 18

Worked on the abs flexed/abs sucked in/back flat on the scap push-ups and dip bar shrugs. Felt really good. Neck withdrawn and tucked on the neck stuff.

----

Surfing 1 hour

Windansea was glossy, 4 foot and peeling. Well, peeling sometimes and closing out others. Tried adding in "don't be too pushy." For the majority of the session it was great! I pulled off some good rights and lefts, stalled a little bit and did a big frontside carve.

But then...I was waiting for a wave in and saw a lined up left and an okay looking right. I took off at the peak, intending to go left and not split the wave. There was a guy who paddled into it heading left...I kid you not my thought pattern was "I'll just run this guy off the wave." Well he told me loudly to "FUCK OFF!!" and I went right and it was a pretty good wave, taking me all the way into shore.

I had this happen about two weeks ago. I was at the peak of a wave and could have opted to share and take the less appealing side...or be greedy and take the best line for myself at the expense of anyone else. In that situation I did the same as today. Maybe what I need to focus on is sharing.

----

Body Scan + Noting Meditation 15 minutes + Compassion Meditation (focused on nice thoughts towards the guy who yelled at me)

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 1:46 am 
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Tuesday, December 11th

Surfing 1.5 hours - By my house, 4.6ft at 14s WNW 283

I was shitting myself a bit, because the last time I surfed this spot on a good sized swell I got stuck in a rip and had to be rescued. Paddled out on my 6'4" fish and proceeded to sit in the channel about 30 yards from the pack. Guys were taking off on lots of barrels, but making few of them - although I did see some beautiful long barrels completed and a couple big airs get landed.

Right at the end, about 10 minutes before I went in, all of a sudden I felt a shift. I got nervous, paddled further from the peak, started feeling the sun's rays more intensely. Kind of like being on a date and feeling it's time to end it NOW. Got a fun wave in, but felt I overstayed my welcome.

Got a bunch of waves, felt like I surfed super strong. Came in very happy.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 11:28 pm 
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Wednesday, December 12th - My 40th Birthday!

Squeezed in a 45 minute surf between clients (great waves, but only caught a few), taught meditation (the class surprised me with cookies, cards and a song!) then surfed for another 45 minutes (great waves, caught a bunch).

My buddy took a bunch of pictures of me surfing on Tuesday and they both looked great and I see room for improvement. 3 things to work on:

1. My head sits fairly in front of my body, it seems I have a mild kyphosis. I think when I paddle I compensate with cervical flexibility for thoracic extension strength and I’ve developed a bad movement pattern.
2. When I turn, I often round my lower and upper back, I should be aiming for arching both.
3. When I turn, I draw lines that aren’t beautiful. Not sure how else to say it. Think of the swoops of a cartoonist versus the jagged lines of a 4 year old’s drawings. Really not sure how to work on this, but I am aware of it. I’m excited by the prospect because it’s something I never have thought to work on.


Thursday, December 13th

Yoga + Breath Meditation + Compassion Meditation

Meditation was “I am…” on the breath in, “…at peace” on the breath out. Compassion meditation I subbed in “may you have peace of mind” for “may you live a life of ease.”

Surf looks super fun, but I am exhausted from drinking, not sleeping, surfing numerous days in a row and not wearing sunscreen when I surfed yesterday.

Photograph from Tuesday's surf (thanks to my buddy Shelton at sonofabishop photography):

Image

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 2:06 am 
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Saturday, December 15th

Surfing 3.5 hours

Combination swell of one from 294 and another from 197. Headed to my go-to combo swell spot. Caught a couple waves on the way that were small (and one big one I had to kick out of cause another guy took off after me).

The lefts were rough today, nearly every one resulted in 10 big waves smashing me on the paddle back out. The rights would leave you out in the channel with an easy return. On the lefts I pulled this great snap right in the pocket, perhaps my most critical snap....and went for some big carves, some of which I made, some of which resulted in me eating shit.

On the rights the waves were great, just reeling away - not that steep, but very fun! On one wave there were a couple surfers in my path on the take-off so I took a long arcing bottom turn and it put me into position for a beautiful cutback with my hand down on the face of the wave. This is the way I should be turning on every wave, but I rush...or don't pick my spot...but it felt perfect on that wave!

Paddled over to one other break to catch a wave in, a long, small fun wave full of micro-adjustments to keep in rhythm.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 4:31 am 
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Sergeant Commanding
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Posts: 5407
Sunday, December 16th

Surfing 4 hours

Pretty damn tired from yesterday, but it's Sunday so off I went to give it a try.

Session started off okay, a couple quick lefts and rights with a turn or two each - followed by 10 waves I had to paddle through. There were some incredible lefts to be had, but I couldn't find the spot to be for them. At the half-way mark I was dreaming of a good lunch, but my buddy noticed a wave breaking a couple hundred yards away.

We proceeded to get a ton of waves. The rights were awesome with 2-4 turns each which generally left you in the channel with an easy return. The lefts were shorter but steeper, though often closing out and sometimes leaving you with a bunch of waves on the head as you tried to get back to the take-off zone.

About as good as I've ever surfed, frontside and backside. Super happy! Finished with a burrito the size of a loaf of bread <<<<q

note - yesterday, prior to surfing, I did this warm-up:

10 1-arm arm circles backwards
10 1-arm arm circles forwards
10 chest flyes to back slaps
10 hip circles to each side
10 twists with arm swing to either side
cossack stretch to hip flexor stretch, switch sides
kneeling quad
standing straddle
triangle pose

Monday, December 17th

San Diego is getting hit with a monster swell. Waves of 15 foot were breaking, and people were catching them, but I wanted nothing to do with it. I found a wave that was a consistently fun 5 footer, but I was too damn tired to paddle out.

Seated Yoga + Meditation [box breathing - in for 5, hold for 5, out for 5, hold for 5] + Compassion Meditation

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:21 am 
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Tuesday, December 18th

Heard today was all-time good at one of my favorite spots...had to work during this special time. Then when I was off it was a chaotic mess as far as I could tell until late afternoon. Paddled out there, got a short left that I thought I surfed well, a big left that I fucked up....got my head cleared and caught a massive left with a ton of hard carves on it. Unfortunately my back knee (which bugged me about a month ago) felt weak, and was giving out on me. And the rest of the session I blew waves because as I got up the knee gave out. Weird - zero pain, just weak. Leg stabilizers tomorrow is the plan.

Surfing 1 hour

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:31 pm 
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Wednesday, December 19th - Lower Body Stabilizers

Band TKE - Purple x 20 each x 4 sets
and
Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 4 sets

Band Side Walk - Purple [at ankles] x 20 each x 4 sets
and
Slow Roundhouse Kicks x 20 each x 4 sets

Band Straight-Leg Adduction - Red x 20 each x 4 sets
and
Band Bent-Leg Adduction - Purple x 20 each x 4 sets

Glute Bridge [back on bench] x 90 seconds x 4 sets
and
Band Kickback - Red x 20 each x 4 sets

----

Surfing 30 minutes

Hopped in at the spot nearest me on an extremely low-tide (this spot is a mid- to high-tide break). It was sketchy as fuck. Got a close-out that put me in 18" of water, a wave I backed out of because it looked even shallower, a mid-sized wave that I got a sluggish turn on, and an insider with a lil' turn. Knee felt fine.

----

Meditation (focused on the breath) + Compassion Meditation

----

Hatha Yoga 1.25 hours

Favorite poses were Kneeling Side Straddle with Overhead Reach and Fat Baby

The cute teacher gave us some tarot cards at the end and mine said "focus on your priorities, eliminate all distractions." I like that.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 4:02 am 
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Thursday, December 20th - Shoulders and Back

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow by Side 50lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

DB Seated Shoulder Press 35's x 15, 15, 12, 12
and
Seated Cable Rows 42.5lbs x 15 x 4 sets

DB Standing Shoulder Press 20's x 10, 8, 8, 8
and
Cable Standing Row - Elbows Up 70lbs x 15 x 4 sets

Cable Internal Rotation - Elbow on Knee 30lbs x 20 each x 2 sets

Notes: incredible surf today, but I was tired and skipped. Definitely think somewhere around 24 sets is my volume cap if I want to surf 7 days a week. Yesterday was 32 sets and it was a drag to do them all...then today I felt lethargic. Also, looked through my notes from January or February and noticed a good day of surfing after doing 1-Leg Squats instead of Band TKE's. Something to consider.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 1:58 am 
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Friday, December 21st - Abs and Obliques

Surfing 2.5 hours

And like that...poof...my surfing skills have significantly diminished. Worse balance, slower paddling, slower pop-ups. Nothing to do but soldier on with my training. Got one good wave with some fun turns on it, made a couple scary drops....but am down 10-20% or more in ability.

On the plus side, I hung out with my friend from college Daren who's moved to Portland. Got to watch him on his best wave and he was so happy. Yew!

Hanging Knee Raises x 6, 4, 3, 3
and
45 Degree Side Bends [5th setting] x 15, 10, 8, 6

Alternating Leg Raise x 10, 7, 5, 5

On each set I flattened my lower back, tensed my abs like bracing for a punch and sucked in my belly.

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"If you live through defeat, you are not defeated. If you are beaten but acquire wisdom, you have won." - RZA


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