Sunday, December 16th
Surfing 4 hours
Pretty damn tired from yesterday, but it's Sunday so off I went to give it a try.
Session started off okay, a couple quick lefts and rights with a turn or two each - followed by 10 waves I had to paddle through. There were some incredible lefts to be had, but I couldn't find the spot to be for them. At the half-way mark I was dreaming of a good lunch, but my buddy noticed a wave breaking a couple hundred yards away.
We proceeded to get a ton of waves. The rights were awesome with 2-4 turns each which generally left you in the channel with an easy return. The lefts were shorter but steeper, though often closing out and sometimes leaving you with a bunch of waves on the head as you tried to get back to the take-off zone.
About as good as I've ever surfed, frontside and backside. Super happy! Finished with a burrito the size of a loaf of bread
note - yesterday, prior to surfing, I did this warm-up:
10 1-arm arm circles backwards
10 1-arm arm circles forwards
10 chest flyes to back slaps
10 hip circles to each side
10 twists with arm swing to either side
cossack stretch to hip flexor stretch, switch sides
Monday, December 17th
San Diego is getting hit with a monster swell. Waves of 15 foot were breaking, and people were catching them, but I wanted nothing to do with it. I found a wave that was a consistently fun 5 footer, but I was too damn tired to paddle out.
Seated Yoga + Meditation [box breathing - in for 5, hold for 5, out for 5, hold for 5] + Compassion Meditation