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Forums › Training Journals Post your training journals here if you like. › Good Surfing, Good Vibes
Hello!
My name’s Bram, I’m 42, and I started surfing when I was 21.
At the age of 31, I decided to dedicate myself to surfing above all other activities.
I have two goals: the most aloha on the planet, and the best power surfer on the planet.
Wednesday, May 19th
Form cues “knees with toes, good posture, flat lower back.”
Calf Raise x 10 x 3 sets
and
Shin Raise x 10 x 3 sets
Squat x 10 x 3 sets
and
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Rotation x 5 each side x 3 sets
and
Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 3 sets
Band Row Red + Yellow x 20 x 2 sets, Black x 20 x 2 sets
and
Reverse Step-Down x 15, 15, 12, 10 each side
Band Split-Stance Chest Press Red + Yellow x 20 x 4 sets
and
Alt. Knee Raise x 15, 15, 12, 8 each side
Band Good Morning Green x 20, Green + Purple x 20, 20, 15
Yoga 15 minutes
—
Surfing 1.25 hours
Fun session!
Thursday, May 20th
Surfing 2.5 hours
Before I paddled out, I ran my neighbor’s drone for twenty minutes, trying to catch him on some fun waves. Never used one of these before and it was cool to be a remote camera man.
Nice vibes in the water, got some fun rides, and surfing felt solid 🙂
Friday, May 21st
Yoga 1 hour
Haven’t done side plank [we did it from plank, by stepping one hand slightly forwards then pivoting. Nice cue!] or triangle in a while.
Felt good, but my plank/arm balance strength could use some attention.
Maybe dips in my next workout?
Saturday, May 22nd
Did my warm-up, and then, after finishing, noticed that the heavy winds that had been blowing all day had backed off. So canned the workout and surfed instead.
Calf Raise x 10 x 3 sets
and
Shin Raise x 10 x 3 sets
Squat x 10 x 3 sets
and
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Rotation x 5 each side x 3 sets
and
Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 3 sets
Surfing 2 hours
Good energy with the other surfers in the water, fun waves amidst tricky conditions, and surfing harmony feels pretty good!
Sunday, May 23rd
Surfing 3.5 hours
Tough session.
Accompanied by a rough internal dialogue, complaining to others, then yelling “FUCK!!!!!” in frustration after everyone had left and I was still strugglin’.
Good vibes is a big goal! Could have just cheered for others, looked for the silver linings (definitely reflected on acting like a whiny baby), and not stress out about random off days.
Life pointed out I’ve got some room to grow for sure 😀
Tuesday, May 25th
1-Leg Standing Ankle Circles Out/In x 7/7 each x 3 sets
Hip Circles x 7R/7L x 3 sets
and
1-Arm Circles Forwards/Backwards x 7/7 each x 3 sets
Reverse Lunge x 5 each x 3 sets
and
Broomstick Deadlift x 10 x 3 sets
Bulgarian Split-Squat x 15 each x 4 sets
and
Pull-Ups x 4, 3, 2, 2
Alt. Leg Raise x 15 each, Alt. Knee Raise x 15 each, Alt. Knee Tuck x 15 each x 2 sets
and
Push-Ups x 20, 15, 13, 10
Band Good Morning w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 4 sets
Stretch 15 minutes
—-
Surfing 2.25 hours
I was curious how today would go, mindful of the struggle to catch waves last time, as well as of the struggle to keep a good headspace when facing adversity.
Surfed pretty okay at first, finding some nice quick sections to get a turn in. As the session wore on, I experimented with different mental cues to try and get my attitude in a good place. At the end, a little light went on, a couple mental cues got shuffled around, and started hammering turns. Then went in early (not normal), knowing that there were still waves coming in, but the body felt happily fatigued.
Thursday, May 27th
Band Reverse Fly – Thumbs Up ~10lbs x 20, 19, 11, 10
Have been focusing on rows/pull-ups for upper body pulling motions, but the upper back feels like it could use extra love n’ attention.
—-
Surfing 4.5 hours
Decided to eat magic mushrooms pre-surf. I’ve had them before, but never coupled with any activity beyond walking around or randomly climbing things.
Had a fun time!
It was a relatively mellow experience, punctuated by REALLY getting into the shape of the wave’s wall, or being focused on a fish swimming along as I dropped in.. At one point, a girl I know had just paddled out, and I could see she was jonesing for a wave. One came to us, and I asked “Would you like this one?” She grabbed it and was grateful for the share 🙂 I tend to approach life with a series of calculations: “It’s my turn!” “I deserve this!” “Not fair!!” The behavior does have its rewards — like getting a few more waves each session — but it puts out a lot of negativity too — like never letting some waves go to someone else. Letting her take that wave was a small way to put out good energy. Gonna try to figure out how to be a more generous, more easy-going human 🙂
Sunday, May 30th
Running in Place x 15 seconds x 3 sets
And
Jumping Jacks x 12 x 3 sets
Squats x 10 x 2 sets
And
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Thoracic Rotation x 5 each x 2 sets
And
Outside Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 2 sets
Bulgarian Split-Squats x 15 each x 3 sets
And
Push-Ups x 20, 20, 15
And
Alt. Leg Raises x 15 each x 2 sets, Alt. Knee Raises x 15 each
Power Band Rows w/ Black x 20 x 3 sets
And
Power Band Good Mornings w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 3 sets
Power Band Reverse Flies w/ Yellow x 15, 12
Stretch 15 minutes
Did this workout with my cousin Alex whom I’m visiting for a week. Nice amount of volume and variety. 🙂
Tuesday, June 1st
Running in Place x 15 seconds x 3 sets
And
Jumping Jacks x 12 x 3 sets
Squats x 10 x 2 sets
And
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to
Thoracic Rotation x 5 each x 2 sets
And
Outside Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 2 sets
Bulgarian Split-Squats x 15 each x 3 sets
And
Push-Ups x 20 x 3 sets
And
Alt. Leg Raises x 15 each, 15, 8
Power Band Rows w/ Black x 20 x 3 sets
And
Power Band Good Morning w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 3 sets
Power Band Reverse Flies x 13, 11
Stretch 15 minutes
Friday, June 4th
Yoga 1 hour
Enjoyable vinyasa flow class at The Little Yoga Studio in Boulder with Cousin Alex.
Rock Climbing 1.5 hours
Alex and I did some bouldering and top roping at Movement Climbing, also in Boulder. Alex is a life-long climber, with beautiful technique, and gave me tips and inspiration for attempting an efficient, flowing approach — achieved in glimpses.
Sunday, June 6th
Surfing 1.5 hours
Felt great to get back in the Ocean! Good sections were challenging to locate, but found a few places to get a solid turn in 🙂
—-
Surfing 2.25 hours
Took out a new board for the first time, and did not bring a leash (which attaches the board to your ankle).
I often try new mental cues to help focus, and tonight I opted for “never give up.” The very first wave I caught with this mentality, I ended up surfing it way to close to shore, and lost my board into some rocks. Generally, there’s a strong rip current where these rocks are, and I’d opt to swim out to sea then parallel to the shore to get in safely. Tonight, I barely paddled away from the rip before trying to get in, and got thrown flatly onto exposed rocks! Unbelievably (thanks God!!!), I wasn’t injured here! The next wave tossed me past the rocks, onto a narrow stretch of sand, but with a sandstone sea wall between me and safety. I got up, but was ripped off my feet by the following wave. As I fell here, my right leg collapsed into a hurdler’s stretch onto the sand — which felt shitty on the medial knee.
Ditched that mental cue, and felt fine surfing the rest of the session, but the medial knee has a burning sensation today (Monday).
Sadly, I had a wonderful list of cues before I left for my trip to Colorado, and fueled only by ego to “be my best” I switched things around.
Very grateful to not lose any teeth, get knocked out, or die…but the potential was there for horrific calamity.
Old mental cue list, which I am 100% returning to for surfing:
feel, connect, fun, love, flow, style, brave, focus
Hoping to do a light leg workout today (Monday), with some extra focus on adduction/abduction to help support the knee.
Monday, June 7th
Calf Raise/Shin Raise x 7 each, Hip Circle x 7 R/7, Shoulder Circle x 7 F/7B, Squats x 10-15, Overhead Reach w/ Side Lean x 7R/7L, 1-Foot Ankle Circle x 7R/7L, Lateral Leg Swing x 10 each, 1-Arm Swing Front-to-Back x 7 each, Stationary Lunges x 5-10 each, Forwards Leg Swing x 10 each
Band Box Squats w/ Green x 20, Green + Purple x 15
and
2-Up, 1-Down Calf Raise x 15 each x 2 sets
Stationary Lunges x 15 each x 2 sets
and
Wall Leaning Shin Raise x 20 x 2 sets
Band 1-Leg Standing Abduction w/ Yellow x 20 each, 20R/15L
and
Band 1-Leg Standing Adduction w/ Red x 20 each x 2 sets
Glute-Ham Raise x 15 x 2 sets
Band Good Morning w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 2 sets
Stretch 15 minutes
Note: It seems that the continual tinkering with what to think about while surfing — and the resulting bad situation — might come from the challenges with the “Good Vibes” part of the equation. Instead of a meta-solution for both, will look to solve for just the “Good Vibes” part. It wasn’t mentioned yesterday, ’cause it felt shitty to bring it up, but cut someone off yesterday on purpose. Two wrongs did not make a right, as this left me in a foul mood for quite some time, regardless of how the other guy felt (we chatted in a friendly manner later on without discussing it). Will report once actions begin to be chosen, in challenging situations, that either create positivity or neutralize negativity.
Tuesday, June 8th
Surfing 30 minutes
Surfing 2.75 hours
Surfing 2.75 hours
Three times today, different speed management techniques were used correctly.
Session 1, in response to a potential barrel on take-off: avoided bottom turning, instead immediately stalling. This kept speed to the max.
Session 2, in response to an oncoming steep section: went into a long, slow, bottom turn, then straight back up the wave. This kept speed to the max.
Session 3, in response to a wave that was running away: went into a short, explosive bottom turn, driving down the line. This kept speed to the max.
Each response was quite different, but the correct one in that moment. How to keep speed to the max seems the key to good surfing, and how to stay aware of this speed source (visual? courage? rhythm? other?) is a puzzle.
Thursday, June 10th
Surfing 2.5 hours
Good vibes: Two guys out at spot one (Keith and Dave). Cheered for their waves, chatted about this and that. Spot two had more people. Politely chatted with a few of them, politely waited my turn.
Good surfing: got a few flowing turns at spot one. At spot two, on the final wave, faded waaaaay back on the take-off, which was needed as it severely flattened out. When the wave stood back up, got a fun mini-carve, then a rare kick-stall (you lift the nose out of the water and turn the board a lil’ sideways) to stay in the pocket.
Friday, June 11th: Push
Running in Place x 15 seconds x 3 sets
And
Jumping Jacks x 12 x 3 sets
Squats x 10 x 2 sets
And
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to
Thoracic Rotation x 5 each x 2 sets
And
Outside High Knee Rotations x 10 each x 2 sets
Alt. Leg Raises x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Push-Ups x 15, 15, 12
Band Stir-the-Pot x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Band 1-Arm Shoulder Press x 15 each x 3 sets
Sahrmann Exercise x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Band Push-Down x 20 x 3 sets
Band Reverse Flies x 16, 14, 10
Band External Rotation w/ Elbow by Side x 20R/17L, 15R/13L, 12R/10L
Yoga 15 minutes
Notes: For the past 23 years (I’m 42), I’ve had to train external rotation or I get overuse injuries in my anterior shoulder. But the past few months, I’ve changed my upper body cue to be only “good posture” and have been able to drop it. Likewise, the past few years, anytime I train abs or obliques without direct TVA work, my surfing balance has gone to shit. Again, over the past few months, I’ve reduced my core focus down to one cue — “flat lower back” — dropped any TVA activation, and my balance has been fine. But I’m reintegrating them in, just to see. With TVA (today it was the Sahrmann exercises), it’s important to note that the general consensus is a “neutral spine,” so for that exercise only I used a neutral spine.
Saturday, June 12th: Legs
Running in Place x 15-20 seconds x 3 sets
And
Jumping Jacks x 10-15 x 3 sets
Squats x 10-15 x 2 sets
And
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to
Thoracic Rotation x 5 each x 2 sets
And
Outside Bent-Leg Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 2 sets
Band Box Squats w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 3 sets
and
Front-Foot Elevated Calf Raise x 20 each x 3 sets
Bulgarian Split-Squats x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Wall Leaning Shin Raise x 20 x 3 sets
Band 1-Leg Standing Abduction w/ Yellow x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Band 1-Leg Standing Adduction w/ Red x 20 each x 3 sets
Glute-Ham Raise x 15 x 3 sets
Band Good Morning w/ Green + Purple x 20 x 3 sets
Yoga 15 minutes
Notes: putting a little more TLC into the diet. Current goal is four balanced meals a day (one of those with no carbs…if exercising, one of those with no fat), and 4.5 liters of water. If this ain’t working, will modify.
Sunday, June 13th: Pull
Running in Place x 15-20 seconds x 3 sets
And
Jumping Jacks x 10-15 x 3 sets
Squats x 10-15 x 2 sets
And
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to
Thoracic Rotation x 5 each x 2 sets
And
Outside Bent-Leg Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 2 sets
Alt. Leg Raises x 15 each side x 3 sets
and
Chin-Ups x 6, 5, 4
90 Degree Side Plank (hooking feet in a GHR machine) x 45 seconds each x 3 sets
and
Squat-Stance Cable Row 100lbs x 20, 110lbs x 20, 120lbs x 20
Bent-Over DB Reverse Fly 5’s x 15, 10, 10
and
DB Hammer Curls 20’s x 16, 11, 10
DB Side Lying External Rotation 5lbs x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Sahrmann Level 2 x 15 each x 3 sets
Stretching 15 minutes
Wednesday, June 16th
A decade ago, there was a simple plan. Each workout, a few categories had to be completed. The difficulty for each was based on how that part of the body felt.
Max capacity — things like hill sprints and clapping push-ups.
Moderate capacity — bench, rows, lunges.
Low capacity — calf raises, biceps, triceps.
It worked extremely well, and helped build a lean, muscular, flexible, and athletic physique.
I abandoned it due to a few reasons: it lacked an upper back component (added today), it lacked a dynamic warm-up (added today), and can’t remember what else.
Today’s an attempt to get back on that path:
Arm Cross-Overs x 15
Reverse Lunge x 10 each
1-Arm Circle Backwards x 10 each
Mountain Climber x 30
1-Foot Reach for Floor x 8 each
3 rounds
Power Band Chest Press w/ Red + Yellow x 20, 20, 20, 15
and
Band High Row 40lbs x 15, 12, 10, 10
Step-Downs x 20 each x 4 sets
and
Bent-Leg L-Sit x 30 seconds x 4 sets
Power Band Row w/ Red + Yellow x 20 x 4 sets
and
Power Band Good Morning w/ Green + Purple x 20, w/ Green + Purple + Orange x 15, 10, 8
Yoga 15 minutes
—
Surfing 1.75 hours
Waves were occasionally quite good, but struggled to choose those. Generated speed like a demon, but couldn’t find sections to do anything with that speed. The most positive thing was my attitude. Backed off of a few nice waves so others could have them, and cheered for and chatted with everyone 🙂
Thursday, June 17th
Surfing 2 hours
Dodgy conditions, but surfed well.
On the other hand, the attitude was an issue. Although nothing improper was done or said, there was a lot of negative thoughts: fuck this guy, I’m the best, I suck, why you trying to take MY WAVE….that kind of crap.
Friday, June 18th
Surfing 5.25 hours
A superlative surfing day: barely anyone out, consistent waves with good shape, and a high level of surfing performance!
Received the tip to rotate the shoulders and head further when turning. Earlier in the day, while watching an ongoing pro surf contest, you could see the pro’s mostly surfing the same way — with short, chopping turns. But one pro in particular, Conner Coffin, would fully rotate his head/hips/shoulders when possible. The judges were commenting that his full-circle turns seemed on a higher level…and they looked beautiful!
Upon reflection, what was happening was all the energy was being released at the very first opportunity. The issue is that surfing is not a one-size-fits-all activity. The energy needs to be released at the optimal moment. If you wait, the rotational power will get transferred into the heads/hips/shoulders — but this only works when you have the right section!
Unclear how to integrate this, but at least it’s on the radar. Awesome session!
Saturday, June 19th
Broomstick Twist x 8 each
Ba Gua Tea Exercise A x 8 each
Capoeira Ginga x 8 each
Ba Gua Tea Exercise B x 8 each
Forwards Leg Swing x 10 each
3 rounds
Sled Push x 45 seconds x 4 sets
and
BB Hang Clean 95lbs x 15, 12, 12, 12
Push-Ups x 20, 15, 12, 10
and
Squat Stance Cable Row 120lbs x 20 x 4 sets
Lying Leg Raise x 15, 10, 7, 6
and
DB Bent-Over Flies 5lbs x 16, 10, 7, 6
Yoga 15 minutes
Sunday, June 20th
Sore in upper traps, chest, lats, calves, quads, glutes, and hamstrings. Randomly this morning pulled off a wide-leg standing forwards fold to headstand and back. Haven’t done that in a few years 🙂
Surfing 1.5 hours
Struggled with wave selection, but got a handful of fun waves. Tried to time my fin release to be near the pocket vs. the first opportunity. When done right, kept more speed, power, and flow.
Monday, June 21st
Surfing 2 hours
Brought two boards out to heavy Big Rock. Was not in the right mindset, most of the time paddling slower than necessary (causing the board to get in late), and surfing slower than necessary (causing the board to get caught behind).
Managed a few fun turns. Saw a handful of barrels get made by others. My buddy Rob paddled into a wave about ten feet from me, got caught in the lip on the take-off and then smashed into the reef. He was taken out by paramedics on a stretcher, hopefully just a bad bruise and not a fracture.
EDIT: Hung out with Rob later in the day, x-ray’s show nothing broken, seems to be just a severe impact on his tailbone/pelvis. Thank you, God! Scary!!
Surfing 3 hours
Ate, swapped boards, and went to South Bird. It was perhaps the swell of the year out there, and on a gorgeous, sunny day too. Immediately started ripping. Got a bunch of compliments and was just absolutely smashing turns. And the vibe was so good! Everybody was getting good waves and surfing well and it was wonderful to experience that side of surfing. And very happy my friend’s okay!
Wednesday, June 23rd
Surfing 1.5 hours
Holy shit, have been tired! Yesterday there was no way, with big waves, that paddling around felt safe. Today was a bit smaller, but still got steam-rolled by a wave that the arms didn’t have the juice to dodge. Heard a good quote about Pipeline in Hawaii, that could be applied to any wave: “You need a teaspoon of confidence and a tablespoon of respect.”
Sidenote: towards the end of the session, a guy I recognized paddled out and immediately past me (had been waiting for my turn and was next up). He didn’t make eye contact and seemed to have bad energy. This went on for twenty minutes or so, the hassling for position and scowling. He’s buddies with Dave, who was also out, and eventually I asked what his friend’s name was: “Chris.” I decided to, in a friendly manner, call him by his name and ask him if he’d been out surfing the past few days. Instantly, the energy changed! He had a big smile, talked about his waves, and everything was cool.
Friday, June 24th
Surfing 2 hours
Met up with my old college friend and roommate who’s moved to Portland, Oregon. Super fun catching up and sharing waves. Went to a sorta-secret spot: only 2-3 other people out, with friendly energy in the water…and a massive sea lion that was blissed out and blowing it’s giant nose randomly.
Saturday, June 25th
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks, Squats + High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Thoracic Rotation + Standing 1-Leg Hip Circles
Standing Cable Row 110lbs x 20 x 3 sets
and
L-Sit x 45 seconds x 3 sets
Sled Push x 45 seconds x 3 sets
and
BB Push-Press 95lbs x 6, 5, 4
Glute-Ham Raise w/ Band Assistance x 10 x 3 sets
and
Band Reverse Flies x 15, 12
Stretch 15 minutes
Notes: added back the focus on “neutral hips.” Cut volume today after experiencing a week of general fatigue, poor sleep, and dreading the gym.
Monday, June 28th
Surfing 1.25 hours
Continuing to work on form tweaks (deeper stance, back-arm positioning). Showed up at a break with just a cute, ripper, surf girl I know out. Chatted with her, then a few more people paddled out (one I know, one I introduced myself to).
After years of puzzling over how to deal with others in the water, finally feeling like I’m getting it figured out a little: saying hi, chatting in a friendly way if people seem up for it, cheering for other’s good waves, communicating if it’s iffy one of us is taking a wave, letting go of little transgressions…and if there’s big problems, got options for those too. There’s a sense of peace and confidence in surfing with others that’s eluded me, but it’s showed up in the past few surfs 🙂
—
Working on some different form cues:
Alt. Knee Raises [brace core, flat lower back] x 3 sets
Lying Super-Man [flex glutes, squeeze shoulder blades down and back, flat lower back] x 1 minute x 3 sets
Thursday, July 1st
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks, Squats + High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Thoracic Rotation + Bent-Leg Outside Hip Circles
Push-Ups x 15, 11, 10
and
Box Pistols x 15 each x 3 sets
1-Arm Band Rows w/ Black x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Band Wood-Chopper w/ Black x 15 each x 3 sets
Band Good Mornings w/ Purple + Green x 20 x 3 sets
and
Band Reverse Flies ~10lbs x 20, 15
Stretch 15 minutes
—
Surfing 2.25 hours
Mellow for the most part, but occasionally some nice sections to be had. The grey skies have kept the crowds limited at this one spot, yet a few blocks away there’s plenty of people competing with one another.
Friday, July 2nd
Surfing 1.5 hours
Fuck, this is a hard activity. My mind was off the first hour, and I couldn’t get a decent ride — either immediately falling, missing the wave, or catching a weak one.
Re-focused, started giving it 100% effort, throwing myself into what felt like certain doom, and got four good waves.
Three side-notes:
1. 3 meals and 2 snacks has been working great! More muscle, less fat, better sleep.
2. Dropping the dynamic warm-up and upper back exercise. Will revert to a general warm-up (say running for 5-10 minutes) and focus on contracting mid-low traps on certain exercises. In exchange, adding a set to the main exercises.
3. Although my legs are straighter than other surfers…and I’ve been trying to change this… I watched a pro who’s built like me using the same stance I gravitate towards. Will make changes based on how they effect performance, not on trying to be someone else.
Saturday, July 3rd
Running in Place x 15-20 seconds x 3 sets
and
Jumping Jacks x 10-15 x 3 sets
Squats x 10-15 x 3 sets
and
Slow Mountain Climbers x 20 x 3 sets
and
Bent-Knee Crescent Kicks x 7 out/7 in each side x 3 sets
Box Pistols x 15 each x 4 sets
and
Lying Super-Man [flex glutes, flex mid/low traps] x 1.5 minutes x 4 sets
Pull-Ups x 3, 3, 2, 2
and
Push-Ups [flex abs] x 20, 15, 12, 10
and
Alt. Leg Raise x 15 each, 15, 11, 10
Stretch 15 minutes
—
Surfing 40 minutes
A bit choppy, but super fun, and kinda big! There was only a few people out and they were being choosy, but I was going on everything I could as I was under a time crunch. I was able to do the kind of bottom turns I want! I would do a top turn, glance at the white water, drop straight down next to it…go out into the flats until I felt a boost in speed…then go up into the next turn. It’s only waiting a beat or three more than normal to begin the bottom turn, but it’s interesting…you feel this potential for power as you get towards the bottom (where I normally begin my bottom turn), then a loss of power (where I sometimes force a bottom turn from), then an increased potential (where I would do it today).
These are make-believe numbers, but illustrate the difference:
Normal bottom turn = +10 to the top turn
Forced bottom turn = +0 to the top turn
Today’s bottom turn = +20 to the top turn
The only time this was iffy was on the final wave, the first section looked like it might barrel, and my indecision (barrel? turn?) threw off the timing and commitment. Managed the turn, and surfed to the beach, but got out of sync with the wave.
Monday, July 5th
Running in Place x 15-20 seconds x 3 sets
and
Jumping Jacks x 10-15 x 3 sets
Squats x 10-15 x 3 sets
and
Slow Mountain Climbers x 20 x 3 sets
and
Bent-Knee Outside Crescent Kicks x 10 each x 3 sets
Bulgarian Split-Squats x 15 each x 4 sets
and
Push-Ups x 20 x 4 sets
Reverse Crunch w/ Crunch x 20, 13, 14, 14
and
Pull-Ups x 5, 4, 3, 2
Lying Super-Man x 1.5 minutes; 1 minute x 3 sets
and
Band Reverse Flies x 20, 10, 12, 14
Yoga 15 minutes
—
Surfing 1.75 hours
A bit windy, but what a day! Sparkling blue water, light white clouds overhead, not too many people. When I managed to do my correct back-arm movement (swing it back straight on my bottom turn, swing it forwards bent on my top turn), could tell a little improvement in speed. Lots of waves, and lots of fun!
Tuesday, July 6th
Surfing 40 minutes
After two months of grey overcast skies, the past three days have been beautiful. Today was the first day of 2021 surfing without a wetsuit (the water warmed up too) and the temperature was lovely.
Paddled out solo, though shortly after a couple kids and a dad-type joined me.
Got some great 2-3 foot waves, with some spunky turns, and had a hot girl flirt with me when I came in to grab sunscreen, and again when I left.
Perfect!
Wednesday, July 7th
Surfing 45 minutes
Surfing 45 minutes
Surfing 1.75 hours
Good times! Realizing that I over use my body’s energy (cranking the shit out of it) and under use the wave’s energy. Being one with the wave’s power requires being as aligned as possible with the strongest part of it. Fighting this harmony is…something.
Friday July 9th
The surf was insanely good this morning — glassy and ruler edged at one break with long walls to carve on, a barreling left at another spot — but felt rundown and opted to skip. A few hours later came back with energy, and the good waves were gone.
~Ten years ago, surfing Lower Trestles (the best performance wave in the United States), I found myself with a huge, perfect wave heading to me. Although the crowd was thick, I was the only one in position…and missed it. I had been slacking in the gym and knew that if I’d been working hard, I’d have had the paddle strength to catch it. I swore to never slack on my training again.
But the flip-side of that, is doing too much in the gym. I know how much I can train without negatively affecting the rest of my life, but every time I train that much…I feel so good that I start over-doing things. I missed today’s surfing because of too long of a workout the last time I exercised. Today, I swear to never over-train again.
—
Jogging 10 minutes
Band Row x 20 x 4 sets
and
Crunch w/ Reverse Crunch x 20, 15, 12, 10
Pull-Up x 5, 4, 3, 2
Band Curl x 15-20 x 4 sets
and
Band Reverse Fly x 15-20 x 4 sets
Stretch 15 minutes
—
Surfing 1.5 hours
Missed the window for great waves, but still found some fun sections on a beautiful early summer evening. Twice, noting that I was overusing my body, I managed to hook my top turn right next to the breaking part of the wave and cranked a couple extra powerful maneuvers. Challenging to do so, as the time you have to do this is very short and you must be very determined to surf in this high-energy zone. It also feels like you need to match the power of your body with the power of the wave (like if you swing your body at 60lbs of force, you better have 60lbs of ocean force to help you out).
Saturday, July 10th
Surfing 1 hour
Surfing 1.5 hours
On the first session my leash snapped and I lost my board, but a guy I know jumped in and saved it from the rocks, then lent me his leash. Very kind!
On the second session, the tide was high and so it was mostly doing cutbacks to the white-water. Try as I might, I kept ending them a little too early, guessing I need to finish vertically instead of horizontally.
Sunday, July 11th
Jogging 30 minutes
Push-Ups x 20, 20, 15, 12
and
Band Wood-Choppers x 15 each x 4 sets
Band Lateral Raise x 4 sets
and
Band Push-Downs x 4 sets
Band External Rotation – Elbow by Side x 4 sets each
Stretch 15 minutes
—
Surfing 1.25 hours
Well, don’t know why, but surfed out-fucking-standing tonight. Speed, flow, power, harmony, yadda yadda. And obviously had good waves, because you can’t surf well in crap…thank you, Ocean!
Current Training Program
Surf as much as possible. Cycle through the following workouts.
Legs: Dynamic Warm-Up + Squats, Calves, Lunges, Hamstring Curls, Lower Back + Stretch
Pull: Dynamic Warm-Up + Chin-Ups, Rows, Biceps, Abs, Rear Delts + Stretch
Push: Dynamic Warm-Up + Chest, Shoulders, Triceps, Obliques, External Rotation + Stretch
Full (no weights day before/after): Dynamic Warm-Up + Upper Pull, Upper Push, Core, Lower Push, Lower Pull + Stretch
Form Cues = good posture; good alignment; breathe in through nose on eccentric, out through mouth on concentric; pain-free range of motion
Sets = 3 sets for each exercise (have tried more, but tend to burn-out)
Reps per Set = 1-20 for Bi-Lateral, 1-15 a side for Uni-Lateral. Max in 45 seconds for Bi-Lateral, or 30 seconds a side for Uni-Lateral. Isometric Hold for 90 seconds Bi-Lateral, or 60 seconds a side for Uni-Lateral
Was surfing yesterday, and there was a guy charging: throwing himself over the edge of waves, barely sticking the drop, then either getting barreled or getting an extra fifty feet of wave over where I was sitting. Now sometimes he got smoked because he was too deep, or he bobbled the take-off, but most of the time he was getting through them.
I was thinking of what it would take for me to make those waves. Part of it is selecting makeable waves — it’s quite tricky, little nuances indicate whether a wave will break safely or end in chaos. The other part is paddling harder and getting to one’s feet faster. All of it ups the challenge. If currently I’m taking an X difficulty, this would be an X + Y.
Better wave selection, faster paddling, faster pop-ups, a harder challenge overall.
Surfing: Wednesday, September 23rd
What did I do that was good?
What needs to get better?
What changes should I make to become my best?
After some trial-and-error, found that holding a deep squat stance — then releasing it at the right time — has a massive effect on surfing. Hold it a little longer, in the right section, and you do a more powerful version of whatever you’re attempting.
Combining “button mashing” to build speed (rapid-fire cycles of squat and straighten), with “charge attacks” for your major moves (holding the tension until needed) seems to be the ticket.
It requires an open mind, and some bravery, in responding to each section of the wave as it happens. Done right, it feels awesome!
For years, have had a tendency when popping-up to my feet on a wave, to go:
A) Back knee
B) Front foot
C) Stand up
This has caused a lot of damage to surfboards, as 90% of the time that back knee is bashing into the same general area.
This week, I actually broke two surfboards — smashing right through the deck on each with my trailing knee.
Studying the world’s best surfers pop-ups, there’s some differences:
A) Asymmetrical hand placement (right hand slightly higher than my left) vs. hands squared.
B) Hands slightly rotated (hands rotate to the left)
C) Rotate the shoulders (driving the right shoulder forwards and pulling the left shoulder back).
D) Pull to the side with the neck (assisting the shoulder rotation).
E) Drop the chest to get a counter stretch
F) Explosively lift the chest first, then arms straighten, then legs slide up.
This is a horrible habit, planning to experiment until I find what works.
The surf’s been small, and have opted to rest, but continuing to watch surf videos and sure enough MANY of the best in the world take off with a rotated hand/shoulder placement.
Other things:
Monday, September 4th
Running in Place. Jumping Jacks, Squats, Mountain Climbers, Leg Lifts Front/Side/Back
Box Jump x 10 x 3 sets
and
Push-Ups x 15, 12, 10
Alt. Leg Raise x 15, 15, 12 each
and
Band Rows x 20 x 3 sets
Band Good Morning x 20 x 3 sets
and
Band External Rotation w/ Elbow by Side x 20 each x 2 sets
Stretch 15 minutes
Tuesday, September 5th
Surfing 2 hours
An uncommon swell angle in the water — a 226 south-west — which bypassed every local reef except South Bird.
Worked on using my front arm to assist my turns, done well this works remarkably better. It’s interesting to note that some top pro surfers “dead arm” their front arm like I’ve been doing, so this is not just a rookie mistake. Found one particularly beautiful wave that allowed for a vertical snap, though I must say on that one I dead-armed it and it still felt good. Looking forwards to integrating another improvement!
Wednesday, October 6th
Running in Place, Jumping Jacks, Squats, Mountain Climbers, 1-Arm Circles
Box Jumps x 10 x 2 sets
Band Box Squat x 20 x 3 sets
and
2-Feet Up, 1-Foot Down Calf Raise x 10 each x 3 sets
Stationary Lunge x 15 each x 3 sets
Glute-Ham Raise x 15 x 3 sets
Band Good Morning x 20 x 3 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Quads, Glutes, Adductors, Hamstrings, Deltoids
Thursday, October 7th
Surfing 2.75 hours
Tough conditions with a plummeting tide. Managed a few fun waves and decent turns on a grey day, and chatted with nice people.
I know it’s gonna take work to improve — I need to keep a deeper stance, figure out how to use my front arm, and do turns in the steepest part of the wave — but a voice in my head wants to quit surfing altogether and/or not put the work in. I think this is a GOOD SIGN! This happened a couple months ago when I was working on other technical details…but I persevered and got better. Keep working!
—-
Calf Raise/Ankle Raise, High Knees, 2-Arm Circles, Standing Twist, Forwards Leg Swings, Capoeira Ginga
Chaturanga Push-Ups x 15, 11, 8
and
Band Wood-Chop Low-High x 15 each x 3 sets
Band Lateral Shoulder Raise x 20 x 3 sets
and
Band Pushdown x 20 x 3 sets
Side Plank x 1 min. each side x 2 sets
Band External Rotation w/ Elbow by Side x 20 each x 3 sets
Stretch Chest, Front Delts, Rear Delts, Triceps, Glutes, Obliques
Friday, October 8th
Calf Raise/Shin Raise, High Knees, Arm Cross-Overs, Squat to Overhead Reach, Standing Twist, Front/Side/Back Leg Lift
Alt. Leg Raise x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Pull-Ups x 3, 3, 2 (first time w/ arms locked out in a while)
Band Row w/ Thoracic Flexion and Extension x 20 x 3 sets
Band Curl x 20 x 3 sets
and
Band Reverse Fly x 15, 13, 13
Knee Raises x 20, 13
Stretch Forearms, Hip Flexors, Abs, Lats, Biceps, Cat/Cow, Rear Delts
—
Surfing 1.75 hours
No one out! Tough conditions, but whatever! Still fun 🙂
Saturday, October 9th
Surfing 1 hour
No one out, even tougher conditions than yesterday. One thing I’ve been working on lately is my board-destroying pop-up. It should be A) get to both feet. Instead it’s A) slam my back knee in to the board B) get to both feet.
Made it a goal to get five perfect pop-ups. Managed seven (!) and one good wave with three tasty turns to the beach.
Monday, October 11th
Surfing 2 hours
Just a friend and I, then all alone. Grateful to keep getting uncrowded surf!
Got a couple good turns and some fun waves…plus had a goal of 5 perfect pop-ups and scored 13! Still bonking my knee some of the time. If I can get to 20 in a session, I’ll fix the two boards I broke as a reward. 🙂
Tuesday, October 12th
Hip Circles, Arm Crossovers, Squat to Overhead Reach, Capoeira Ginga, High Plank to Runner’s Lunge to Thoracic Rotation, Lateral Leg Lift
Box Jumps x 10 x 3 sets
and
Black Band Rows x 20 x 3 sets
Burpee w/ Push-Up x 10 x 3 sets
Mountain Climber x 50, 38, 35
Lying Super-Man x 1.5 mins x 3 sets
Stretching Chest, Lats, Biceps, Triceps, Neck, Hip Flexors, Quads, Glutes, Adductors, Hamstrings
Wednesday, October 13th
Surfing 2 hours
Good conditions!
Got 8 good pop-ups! Still hitting my knee a decent amount. On the best wave I went for, I leapt to two feet, but put too much pressure on my front foot, and the nose of the board went into the face of the wave. I fell and rolled, then got picked up by the wave and tossed again — luckily not hitting bottom!
At the end, I got a small but super fun wave with two great carves where I opened my arms up and laid into the turns.
Thursday, October 14th
Fun waves again!
Got a couple solid turns in and achieved the goal of 20 good pop-ups!! Walking away from the beach, I had a big smile on my face and felt a glow of accomplishment.
At one point, I took off at what looked like the barrel section (normally I go to the safe side of this), I got to the bottom of the wave, then took the lip on my back…but the wave was hollow! Next time I’ll try and take off on the deeper side, then thread the barrel. But must read the wave correctly, need a barrel section with an exit.
—
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks x 3 rounds; Squats + Slow Mountain Climbers + Outside Crescent Kicks x 2 rounds
Stationary Lunge x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Black Band Row x 20 x 3 sets
Alt. Leg Raise x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Red Band Close-Grip Chest Press x 20 x 3 sets
Green + Purple Band Good Morning x 20, 15, 10
and
Yellow Band External Rotation x 20 each x 2 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Quads, Glutes, Adductors, Hamstrings – Front/Side/Across, Forearms, Abs, Lats, Biceps, Chest, Triceps, Neck
—
Watching some footage of one of my favorite pros, Wade Carmichael, I noticed as he comes out of big turns and carves he carries the momentum from the end of one turn directly into generating speed for the next. As I finish turns, I often feel the board sag into the wave.
Friday, October 15th
Yoga 30 minutes
Surf looks fun, but have had enough sun — maybe later in the day I can sneak out — opted to do yoga in my living room instead.
—
Surfing 1.25 hours
Gorgeous late afternoon, with gentle offshore winds grooming a late season south swell.
Got some great waves and great turns!
A guy who has been unfriendly the past few years finally opened up, smiled, and talked. That was nice too! Leaving the beach to him genuinely saying, “Have a good night!” was a welcome change in energy. 🙂
Saturday, October 16th
Surfing 1.5 hours
Great swell, great winds, wrong break. 15/17 pop-ups were good and got a couple sections to turn on. Hoping to surf again somewhere else!
Surfing 1 hour
Waited an hour, then got a nice set wave.
Surfing 1 hour
Got a lot of waves, and a couple okay turns. All day today was on a new board. It’s slightly bigger than normal, so it paddles faster (getting me into a number of waves I’d normally miss tonight), but maneuvers slower.
Sunday, October 17th
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks x 3 rounds
Squats + Slow Mountain Climbers + 1-Leg Hip Circles In/Out x 3 rounds
Glute Bridge w/ Alt. Leg Extension x 15 each x 2 sets
Box Jumps x 10 x 4 sets
and
1-Leg Box Jumps x 10 each x 4 sets
Slow Back Kicks x 20 each x 2 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Quads, Adductors, Hamstrings Front/Side/Across
—
Surfing 2 hours
—
Yoga 30 minutes
Tuesday, October 19th
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks x 3 rounds
Squats + Slow Mountain Climbers + 1-Leg Hip Circles In/Out x 2 rounds
Chin-Ups x 5 sets
and
Lying Leg Raises x 5 sets
Hanging Knee Raises x 4 sets
Standing Cable Rows x 4 sets
and
TRX Rows x 4 sets
BB Curls x 4 sets
and
DB Hammer Curls x 4 sets
DB Bent-Over Reverse Flies x 4 sets
Stretch Forearms, Rear Delts, Lats, Biceps, Hip Flexors, Abs
—
Yoga 30 minutes
Couple nice things today: pulling my legs apart and towards the ground in butterfly, first crane pose in quite some time, a bit more flexible in hamstrings
A couple notes about yesterday’s lifting:
Personal training has been slow the past few months. My preferred marketing is to be friendly and fit. In the past, I’d regularly be approached by curious customers. But, this barely happens anymore. The big change in my training has been switching to a low-volume approach (e.g., 3 sets of chest a week).
On the other hand…this low-volume approach has allowed for tons of surfing. With short workouts, my body has almost always felt fresh and up for another surf. And after a bunch of sets yesterday, today I’m wiped out.
Surfing a ton has been so much fun, and my surfing skills have improved with all the extra time. But business has stagnated. I’m going to try and prioritize higher-volume lifting (e.g., 8 sets of chest a week), still surfing as much as recovery allows, and see what the outcome is.
Friday, October 22nd
Hiking 2.5 hours
Did a day-trip out to Santa Cruz Island, off of Ventura. The highlight was encountering two massive pods of dolphins on the crossing, watching them leap playfully in great numbers right next to the boat.
—
Dynamic Warm-Up
Band Box Squats x 3 sets
and
2-Feet Up, 1-Foot Down Calf Raises x 3 sets
Stationary Lunges x 3 sets
and
Wall-Leaning Shin Raises x 3 sets
Band Standing 1-Leg Abduction x 3 sets
and
Band Standing 1-Leg Adduction x 3 sets
Floor-Sliding Ham Curls x 3 sets
and
Slow Front Kicks x 3 sets
Band Good Morning x 3 sets
Band TKE x 3 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Quads, Adductors, Hamstrings
Saturday, October 23rd
Surfing 1.5 hours
Surfed the legendary Rincon: “The Queen of the Coast.” A mixed-up swell and a high-tide was making it confusing, but people were finding gems and ripping them to pieces. I found a few waves, one stretching out for a good while, but nothing exceptional.
Yoga 30 minutes
Sunday, October 24th
Hiking 2.5 hours
Did part of the Saddle Peak trail, a segment of the (much larger) Backbone Trail, located in the Santa Monica Mountains. Lots of climbing, lots of shade. Didn’t reach the peak, but definitely covered some ground!
Surfing 2 hours
Drove back from L.A., right after hiking, stopping to check a break near home: few surfers and plenty of waves! Fun times 🙂
Monday, October 25th
Surfing 2.5 hours
Been pondering how to best express myself in alignment with the waves….
Managed a few moments of harmony today: a close-out snap…a full wrapping carve. The motion of your entire body must be in alignment with the energy of the wave. On top of that, your personality should emerge too!
I’ve felt the wave slow…then squatted, closed my eyes, and bowed my head and hands in prayer to the wave…standing back up as the wave accelerated and transitioned into a turn. Other times, I’ve built speed like a maniac, identified the section, and cracked it for all I’m worth. Both were expressions of self and harmonious. How to transition from glimpsing this to something more?
Tuesday, October 26th
Surfing 4 hours
Big waves today! I worked through perfect morning conditions at La Jolla Shores, which dissolved by the time I was free, so opted for PB Point (my preferred local spot when the big winter swells come).
The current was relentless, the waves were mostly relentless, the take-off zone was confusing…but I basically surfed alone the whole time. Managed three good waves that I surfed well, but am most proud of my positive attitude! My mind would start crafting disempowering stories, but I kept dismissing them, instead encouraging myself to keep trying…plus singing, yelling, and being ridiculously positive — “the best part is the paddle! woooooooo!” — to keep the vibe high.
Thursday, October 28th
Surfing 3 hours
San Diego is a funny place. There’s tons of surf spots, many crowded. But a spot that might have 50 people one day, has 0 the next. Went to a favorite combo swell/high-tide spot, at best it was me + 1. San Diego (global?) legend, Skip Frye, was out at perfect three-foot PB Point. Skip’s 80, and was surfing flawlessly as ever. I got a bunch of waves the first two hours, then for the whims of the world, struggled the last hour.
The idea of the “Good Vibes” part of this journal is two-fold: First, I’m happy when you’re happy. Second, I surf better when we’re all happy. Good vibes were put out, and I grabbed some great waves today.
Rode a new 6’4″ Omni, which is kind of boggy — it paddles fast, but once up, I can’t move it around as much as other boards. I have a few boards that are magic, but this board doesn’t have that inherent liveliness.
Got a tip, from Ron — who said he’s shot surf photography for 30 years — he said backside I used my trailing arm fine, but my front arm did nothing. He advised me to reach with it. It felt weird at times, but when done right, made a big difference.
<3
Friday, October 29th
Yoga 30 minutes
Grateful to add a yoga practice. Although the surf looks quite fun, my skin has had enough — and I need to be better about sunscreen out of the water! Getting to check in with my body today, move it in some different ways, and loosen it up felt great!
—
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks; Capoeira Ginga + Slow Mountain Climbers + 1-Leg Hip Circles Out/In
Glute Bridge w/ Alt. Leg Extension x 15 each x 2 sets
Box Jumps x 10 x 4 sets
and
1-Leg Box Jumps x 10 each x 4 sets (hit a sketchy PR on left leg)
Slow Back Kicks x 20 each x 2 sets
Red Band Lateral Neck Flexion x 20 each x 2 sets (surprisingly challenging on core)
Red Band Neck Flexion x 20 each x 2 sets
and
Red Band Neck Extension x 20 each x 2 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Quads, Glutes, Adductors, Hamstrings, Anterior Deltoids
—
Surfing 2.5 hours
Applied sunscreen the few moments I was outside today, then after waiting until later in the afternoon, I felt okay about going back out. Phenomenal conditions. Much smaller than the peak of the swell on Tuesday, but gentle offshores and perfectly shaped, rip-able waves. Had a chunk in the middle where I got one good wave in 45 minutes. Otherwise was jamming out.
Today’s surf mantra was the most positive one yet: “feel, connect, love, flow, relax, rhythm”
Got a tip to open my shoulders up more when I turn, a high-level surfer said I looked stiff when turning. “Lead with your shoulders, and let the rest of the body follow.”
Sunday, Halloween!
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks; Capoeira Ginga + Slow Mountain Climbers + 1-Leg Hip Circles + 1-Arm Arm Circles
DB Incline Bench x 3 sets
DB Flat Bench x 3 sets
DB Decline Bench x 2 sets
DB Shoulder Press x 4 sets
and
DB Lateral Raise x 4 sets
Triceps Pushdowns x 4 sets
and
DB Skull-Crushers x 4 sets
and
KB Windmill (3-5 seconds up, 3-5 seconds down, 3-5 reps) x 4 sets
DB Side-Lying External Rotation x 3 sets
DB Seated External Rotation x 2 sets
Stretch Chest, Anterior Deltoids, Triceps, Glutes, Obliques
—
Yoga 30 minutes
Today was the first time doing self-guided yoga where I was tempted to follow someone else’s sequence. I originally started with Sun Salutation B, realized it felt forced, then re-started the timer and began again. A couple times today I would start to do a pose I felt “I should do,” but which felt wrong, then I’d ditch it and continue cruising along. Last note was I’m reading a book on yoga, and the author discusses feeling lines of energy in your body. Carried that concept with me today and it felt good!
—
Was planning to surf at 4. The tide was going to be perfect, I’d checked around 2:30 and there was plenty of waves coming in, but the tide was still low. So, at 4, I’m getting ready and my friend calls me (we had been talking about surfing together). “I’m standing here and it sucks. It’s basically flat. You said it was 1-2 foot, it’s 0-1. But if you can come down and watch this dog for me, I’ll be able to get a couple tiny ones on my longboard.” Surprised the waves had died, I agreed. My new plan was get a burrito and then chill on the beach while he surfed. In line for food, I get a flurry of texts” “Hey, why are you taking so long! It’s super fun! I just saw a guy get four turns! Hurry up! Ditch your burrito!” It turns out my friend had lied, in an attempt to get to surf (he had no one else to watch the dog). I was very annoyed, but watched his dog for an hour while he caught waves and got a couple video clips of him on waves.
Not really sure what my point is in venting, I told him numerous times I did not appreciate being duped into watching his dog, and that in the future just ask me to do so. I’ve surfed a bunch this week and he has a kid, a wife, and a hectic job — which gives him little time to surf. All in all, the right thing happened (he got to surf), but the manner he did it in felt bad.
Friday, November 5th
Surfing 1.5 hours
The waves were detonating, but I stayed off to the side where the risk was much lower. Got some fun rides and surfed well!
On another note, last week set a goal of six new personal training clients by the end of the year. Got three new ones this week! I have no advice on how to accomplish this yourself beyond being open to the idea and a bit focused on it. Grateful to the Universe and God!
Saturday, November 6th
Warm-Up
Running in Place x 15-20 seconds
and
Jumping Jacks x 10-15
3 rounds
Band Overhead Squats x 10-15
and
High Plank to Runner’s Lunge x 10 each (a bit tight, so just to outside of elbow)
and
Crescent Kicks x 7 each
and
Axe Kicks x 7 each
2 rounds
Workout
Band Box Squats – Green x 20, Green + Black x 20, Green + Purple x 20
and
2-Feet Up, 1-Foot Down Calf Raises x 10 each x 3 sets
Lunge w/ Back Foot Elevated x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Wall-Leaning Shin Raises x 20 x 3 sets
Slow Roundhouse Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Band Standing 1-Leg Adduction – Red x 20 each x 3 sets
Floor-Sliding Ham Curls x 12, 10, 10
and
Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
Glute Bridge w/ Alt. Leg Extension x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Slow Back Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
Band Good Morning – Green x 20 x 3 sets
Band TKE – Purple x 20 each x 3 sets
Cool-Down
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Quads, Adductors, Hamstrings
Notes: last night, and twice today so far, have had things try my patience. None seemed worth getting upset about, so I didn’t — today I have less drama as a result. OTOH, called out three friends in the past week over something, and each of those also resulted in less drama. Will try to be mindful of what’s worth mentioning, and what is not.
—
Surfing 2 hours
Had an incredibly difficult time catching waves today. Same thing happened during Tuesday’s session. That’s always a factor of upper body strength/endurance. Either my new Upper Push program sucks…or I need to do some speed exercises for the upper body.
Sunday, November 7th
Surfing 1.5 hours
Made a new friend at a party and he brought me to a surf spot I’d never heard of.
We drove down a very long road, then hiked through a gorgeous steep canyon to find a nearly empty beach.
Caught a few big waves and got off a couple nice turns.
—
On a side note, I just started training a client at a private studio a few blocks from my house. The owner said since I’m training a client there, I’m also welcome to use the studio for my own workouts. After 1.5 years I have gym access again! Very grateful!
—
Warm-Up
Light sets of DB Bench from 10’s to 30’s
Workout
DB Incline Bench 35’s x 3 sets
DB Flat Bench 35’s x 3 sets
DB Decline Bench 35’s x 2 sets
BB Standing Shoulder Press 65lbs x 4 sets
and
KB Windmill 10kg x 5 each x 4 sets
DB Lateral Raise 10’s x 4 sets
Cable Triceps Pushdown 40lbs x 4 sets
and
DB Skull-Crusher 15’s x 4 sets
DB Side Lying External Rotation 5lbs x 3 sets
DB Seated External Rotation 5lbs x 3 sets
Cool-Down
Stretch Chest, Lats, Biceps, Triceps, Hip Flexors, Abs, Glutes, Obliques
Monday, November 8th
Surfing 1.5 hours
Another day of pumping surf. In a bit of a slump in terms of wave catching and performance, but luckily at the end the crowd cleared out and at least had more opportunities.
So….when certain wave sections present themselves, I feel I know what to do — e.g. turn this hard, HERE. With others, I freeze like a deer in headlights. Happened today….If I recognized the barrel section, then jammed an arm into the wave to slow down, I could have got barreled. But I didn’t do anything and cruised right past it. A simpler way to put it is I need to know when to do more things — e.g. slow down this much, HERE.
—-
Chin-Ups x 6, 5, 4, 5
1-Arm DB Row w/ Pause at Top 30lbs x 2 sets, 25lbs x 2 sets
TRX Row w/ Elbows Up x 4 sets
BB Curls 45lbs x 3 sets
DB Hammer Curls 15’s x 3 sets
BB Reverse Curl 25lbs x 2 sets
DB Shrugs 30lbs x 4 sets
Red Band Reverse Flies x 4 sets
Hanging Knee Raise x 3 sets
Lying Alt. Leg Raise x 3 sets
BOSU Crunch w/ Band x 2 sets
Stretch Forearms, Rear Delts, Biceps, Lats, Hip Flexors, Abs
Tuesday, November 9th
Surfing 1 hour
Finally a good session! Been out in such nice waves lately, but surfing skills (and paddling) have been okay at best. Got a bunch of fun waves, some good snaps and a devastating carve where I blew the fins out (first good frontside turns on the Omni). Even got a decent backside turn. Only having friends in the water made it even better 🙂
Mantra #1: feel, connect, funny, fun, flow, style
Mantra #2: smart, funny, take care, safe, look, commitment
Sunday, November 14th
Warm-Up
Running in Place + Jumping Jacks x 3 rounds
Broomstick Overhead Squats + Slow Mountain Climbers + Crescent Kicks + Axe Kicks x 2 rounds
Stretch Calves, Biceps, Hip Flexors
Workout
Depth Jumps [6″ box] to Ring the Bell [10′] x 5 L/5 R x 3 sets
and
Med Ball Slams 6lbs x 15 x 3 sets
1-Leg Bench Leaps [6″] to Ring the Bell x 5 each side x 3 sets
and
Med Ball Chest Slams 6lbs x 20 x 3 sets
Alt. Leg Raise w/ Iso Crunch + Arm Pull-Over x 15 each, 12, 10
and
Band Rotations w/ Red [3-5 seconds out, 3-5 seconds in] x 5 each x 3 sets
Squat Stance Cable Rows 110lbs x 20 x 3 sets
Glute-Ham Raises x 12 x 3 sets
and
1-Arm Perpendicular Rear Delt Flies 5lbs x 13R/12L, 12R/8L
BB Deadlift 115lbs x 15, 12, 10
and
DB Side Lying External Rotation 5lbs x 20 each x 2 sets
Cool-Down
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Adductors, Quads, Hamstrings, Chest, Lats, Biceps, Triceps, Forearms, Obliques, Abs
—
Surfing 2.25 hours
Caught a couple fun waves close to shore, then some bigger ones further out. Tim Bessell, a local surfer and shaper, and owner of a beautiful bottom turn was out. I asked him for any tips and he said to compress your legs as you go into your turn, and to straighten your legs as you come out. Thanks, Tim!
Towards the end the surf got really sluggish, and I stayed out longer than I should have in hopes of catching a wave…then showed up late for dinner with friends. Am pondering how I could prevent this next time — the drive to catch a wave vs. being respectful of other commitments.
—
Food for thought:
In contest surfing, there are two schools of thought. There is the “stylist.” I have been termed this by many people who have borrowed the word from skiing. As far as I can ascertain, applied to surfing, it would mean that the the surfer concentrates primarily on maintaining complete control at all times — with good form (whatever that is). This naturally limits maneuverability and tricks.
I know of no name for the other school or style, but in every surfing contest I have judged, there was always the contestant who “gets the job done.” These surfers do many things on a board and are willing to lose some control or composure and even take an occasional spill. In contrast there will be an equally good surfer doing a little bit less, but always maintaining control. In other words, the “stylist” will look smoother, but won’t be doing as much. If he was he wouldn’t look so smooth, and vice versa.
Remember, there are two schools of thought — often it becomes apparent in the style. In the first, the wave is an incidental means of expressing one’s ability to others; often a gym or track field would serve the same purpose. In the second, a wave is simply a beautiful expression of nature and respected as reason enough to participate. The “stylist” merges with the wave, while the former merely “uses” the wave.
What is good?
Words by Phil Edwards, 1964, Surfer of the Year at 1st SURFER Awards
Monday, November 15th
Sore from yesterday! Upper traps, rear delts, core, adductors, hamstrings…just in general.
Surfing 1 hour
Weird tide swings, and I had work through the juiciest window. Caught a few waves, but definitely challenging conditions!
—-
Listened to a great podcast, Jim Loehr on Tim Ferris Ep. 490.
Was driving, so I took voice memos, and these are some transcriptions…
* Jim asks: “Who do you want to be and how would that person react in challenging situations? What’s the image that you want to create for others?”
* Me: “If I can’t catch a wave and I’m having a hard time…I’d paddle over to the side, take a couple deep breaths, think about what I’m grateful for, maybe compliment some people in the line-up, shake my arms out, reset myself, then…see what happens.”
* Jim: “By looking at someone’s body language, you have a pretty good idea of how they’re coaching themselves (aka what their Inner Voice is saying).”
* Me: “I’d like to keep that in mind when surfing. When I’m having those…dark thoughts, I feel like I round my shoulders or stick out my bottom jaw. And I feel like when I shake it off, I’m tall and my shoulders are back.”
* How you compose yourself physically, is how you will address yourself mentally.
* “When I get caught in those bad mindsets…giving off bad energy…and I feel like, ‘Man, the waves just don’t wanna come’…and when I shift perspective…and I’m focused and I’m hopeful…and I let go of attachment to the outcome…it feels really awesome.”
* “I’m very deliberate about when I surf. Sometimes I surf every day…sometimes I’ll skip a few days. Sometimes the waves don’t look fun…sometimes they look exactly the same, but my attitude is different. And so I’m consciously always surfing when I’m pretty stoked. And I think that’s a beautiful way to live.”
* Jim asks: “Who are you you when you’re most proud of yourself? When you’re at your very best? Particularly when you’re in a stressful situation….”
* Me: “I return to this surf experience I had maybe 7 years ago. Where I paddled out, and somebody immediately cut me off. And I could feel the anger start to rise up. And I said to myself, “Well, maybe the next wave will be better.” And I pivoted my head. And because I hadn’t spent any time, you know, looking at him, or thinking about him, or invested any energy in being upset, I was able to immediately see a great wave coming right to me, and paddled into it. And I proceeded to have the best surf of my life…I caught wave after wave after wave…I surfed really well. I think about that ability to shake things off, and stay present, and stay optimistic….I think that’s a a good representative of me at my very best.”
Wednesday, November 17th
Surfing 3 hours
Saw a turtle today! Never have seen a turtle in San Diego, and this one was big and quite up close. It stuck it’s head out like MRRRAAAWWWR and then it happened to be right next to the wave I was catching, so I got to check out it’s green shell. Yeeeew
Thursday, November 18th
Safety Bar Box Squats 135lbs x 20, 15, 12
and
DB Calf Raises 20lbs x 20, 15, 12
DB Walking Lunges 15’s x 12 each x 3 sets
and
DB Seated Calf Raise 35’s x 20, 45’s x 15 x 2 sets
and
Wall-Leaning Shin Raises x 20 x 3 sets
Slow Roundhouse Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
and
Band Standing 1-Leg Adduction – Red x 20 each x 3 sets
Glute Ham Raise x 12, 12, 10
and
Slow Front Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
Glute Bridge w/ Alt. Leg Extension [on heels] x 15 each x 3 sets
and
Slow Back Kicks x 20 each x 3 sets
BB Deadlift 135lbs x 10 x 3 sets
Band TKE – Purple x 20 each x 3 sets
Stretch Calves, Hip Flexors, Glutes, Quads, Adductors, Hamstrings
—
Yoga 30 minutes
Friday, November 19th
Warm-Up
Shoulder Circles, 1-Leg Ankle Circles, Wrist Circles, Hip Circles, Neck Circles, Arm Cross-Overs, Reverse Lunge w/ Overhead Reach, Lateral Step w/ High Knee, Standing Twist, 1-Arm Circles Back, Leg Swings Side, Leg Swings Front, 1-Arm Circles Forwards
Workout
Chin-Ups x 8, Pull-Ups x 5, Chin-Ups x 5, Pull-Ups x 4
DB Bent Over Row 20’s x 4 sets
and
Cable Squat-Stance Row 110lbs x 20 x 4 sets
BB Curl 45lbs x 3 sets
and
DB Hammer Curl 15’s x 3 sets
and
BB Reverse Curl ~25lbs x 2 sets
Hanging Knee Raise x 3 sets
and
Lying Knee Raise x 3 sets
and
BOSU Ball Band Pull-Over x 2 sets
TRX Reverse Flies x 4 sets
Ulnar Deviation x 20 x 2 sets
and
Radial Deviation x 20 x 2 sets
Cool-Down
Stretch Lats, Biceps, Rear Delts, Forearms, Hip Flexors, Abs
Moving locations to http://www.irongarmx.net/
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