Commuting bikes

[Grandpa's Spells]

Thanks everybody. Fixed/single gear it is.

Two cited examples that make a lot of sense, a Redline 925 & a Bianchi San Jose, both appear in recently expired CL ads for under $500 (well under for the Redline).

80's steel frame sounds good as well, and doesn't have the brand running down the frame reading "steal me."

Lights for sure. It's rush hour, Chicago, and daylight savings time doesn't run year round.

[Thatcher II]

Avoid drop bars (racer bars). They are uncomfortable on neck and shoulders. Get something where you're reasonably upright but not sitting completely straight or you'll look like a Danish lady.

Go for aluminum frame. Light and strong. If buying second hand, get the frame checked. Even if it was never crashed there could be something over-tightened that has caused a crack. Fucking dangerous to ride a cracked frame.

Avoid "fixiea". Pure. Fucking. Lunacy. So be sure "single speed" isn't also fixed.

Go for the lightest frame and wheels you can. Pp out the wheels and weigh them. A lot if the time cheaper bikes have shitty heavy wheels.

Go for a good chain set. Personal I prefer gears and I reems shimano.

You'll be uses to the ride in a few days and you'll never look back.

[Thatcher II]

Ducking typos. Sorry gays.

[Turdacious]

Thanks everybody. Fixed/single gear it is.

Two cited examples that make a lot of sense, a Redline 925 & a Bianchi San Jose, both appear in recently expired CL ads for under $500 (well under for the Redline).

80's steel frame sounds good as well, and doesn't have the brand running down the frame reading "steal me."

Lights for sure. It's rush hour, Chicago, and daylight savings time doesn't run year round.

If you ride year round (or most of it), you'll probably spend more on gear and accessories than you did on the bike.

Eventually look into a rack and panniers, they make a lot of sense for a commuter if you decide this is something you want to do longer term, and should be at least considered. There's a lot of good colder weather clothing out there, you know how nasty the Hawk can get. The Park chain scrubber or something similar is probably a necessity for you too, especially with all the salt on the roads-- makes cleaning quick and easy.

[Polo Tomasi]

Hey Spells: where are you in Chicago. I'm in E. Uke village.

[Grandpa's Spells]

Hey Spells: where are you in Chicago. I'm in E. Uke village.

Just moved from Rogers Park to Ravenswood.

[Grandpa's Spells]

A local reputable bike shop has their own brand. For $599, they sell a SS/Fixed bike. I don't know if there's a benefit to going a little upmarket, or if this constitutes that:

Frame: Seamless, butted 4130 Cro-Moly frame, 1-1/8” Campy-spec, Hiddenset HT, 68mm English BB shell, 10mm Dropouts w/integrated chain tensioners; fender/rack eyelets
Fork: Full 4130 Cro-Moly, 1-1/8” steerer tube, uni-crown construction, 43mm rake, fender eyelets
Headset: Neco 1-1/8” Integrated (Hiddenset)
Stem: Silver, alloy +/- 7d rise, 31.8 clamp
Brakes: Tektro Silver, Front and Rear
Brake Levers: Tektro w/ integrated bell
Handlebar: Silver “Flat-Top” alloy, double butted, 6mm rise, 560mm width, 9d backsweep 31.8 clamp
Grip: Velo “Leather” Wrap Classic, brown
Crank: FSA F. Gimondi, CK-633S, 48t chain ring
Front Wheel: Silver 32h Alex R450 dbl.wall rim/ Formula sealed bearing, 10mm bolt-on axle
Rear Wheel: Silver 32h Alex R450 dbl.wall rim/ Formula Flip/Flop (FX/FW) sealed bearing, 120mm spaced, 10mm bolt-on axle
Freewheel: ½” x 1/8” 18t
Cog: ½” x 1/8” 18t
Tires: Vittoria Zaffiro, 700c x 23c
Saddle: Velo “Leather” classic w/silver rivets
S/P: Alloy 27.2 x 300mm micro-adjust
Clamp: Alloy, Silver polish
Pedals: Alloy cage, steel clip, “Leather” strap
Chainguard: Basic Plastic, included
The bike is also fully compatible with fenders and tires up to 700x28c, or 32c tires without fenders. There are also rear rack mounts on the back, but not the fork.

Decent deal?

[DikTracy6000]

Avoid drop bars (racer bars). They are uncomfortable on neck and shoulders. Get something where you're reasonably upright but not sitting completely straight or you'll look like a Danish lady.

Go for aluminum frame. Light and strong. If buying second hand, get the frame checked. Even if it was never crashed there could be something over-tightened that has caused a crack. Fucking dangerous to ride a cracked frame.

Avoid "fixiea". Pure. Fucking. Lunacy. So be sure "single speed" isn't also fixed.

Go for the lightest frame and wheels you can. Pp out the wheels and weigh them. A lot if the time cheaper bikes have shitty heavy wheels.

Go for a good chain set. Personal I prefer gears and I reems shimano.

You'll be uses to the ride in a few days and you'll never look back.

Lots of good tips here^. You might also want to add streamers from your handlebar grips, and big ASS rainbow reflector on the back of your seat(saddle).

[nafod]

A local reputable bike shop has their own brand. For $599, they sell a SS/Fixed bike. I don't know if there's a benefit to going a little upmarket, or if this constitutes that:

Frame: Seamless, butted 4130 Cro-Moly frame, 1-1/8” Campy-spec, Hiddenset HT, 68mm English BB shell, 10mm Dropouts w/integrated chain tensioners; fender/rack eyelets
Fork: Full 4130 Cro-Moly, 1-1/8” steerer tube, uni-crown construction, 43mm rake, fender eyelets
Headset: Neco 1-1/8” Integrated (Hiddenset)
Stem: Silver, alloy +/- 7d rise, 31.8 clamp
Brakes: Tektro Silver, Front and Rear
Brake Levers: Tektro w/ integrated bell
Handlebar: Silver “Flat-Top” alloy, double butted, 6mm rise, 560mm width, 9d backsweep 31.8 clamp
Grip: Velo “Leather” Wrap Classic, brown
Crank: FSA F. Gimondi, CK-633S, 48t chain ring
Front Wheel: Silver 32h Alex R450 dbl.wall rim/ Formula sealed bearing, 10mm bolt-on axle
Rear Wheel: Silver 32h Alex R450 dbl.wall rim/ Formula Flip/Flop (FX/FW) sealed bearing, 120mm spaced, 10mm bolt-on axle
Freewheel: ½” x 1/8” 18t
Cog: ½” x 1/8” 18t
Tires: Vittoria Zaffiro, 700c x 23c
Saddle: Velo “Leather” classic w/silver rivets
S/P: Alloy 27.2 x 300mm micro-adjust
Clamp: Alloy, Silver polish
Pedals: Alloy cage, steel clip, “Leather” strap
Chainguard: Basic Plastic, included
The bike is also fully compatible with fenders and tires up to 700x28c, or 32c tires without fenders. There are also rear rack mounts on the back, but not the fork.

Decent deal?

Needs more disc brakes

[Alfred_E._Neuman]

Avoid drop bars (racer bars). They are uncomfortable on neck and shoulders. Get something where you're reasonably upright but not sitting completely straight or you'll look like a Danish lady.

Go for aluminum frame. Light and strong. If buying second hand, get the frame checked. Even if it was never crashed there could be something over-tightened that has caused a crack. Fucking dangerous to ride a cracked frame.

Avoid "fixiea". Pure. Fucking. Lunacy. So be sure "single speed" isn't also fixed.

Go for the lightest frame and wheels you can. Pp out the wheels and weigh them. A lot if the time cheaper bikes have shitty heavy wheels.

Go for a good chain set. Personal I prefer gears and I reems shimano.

You'll be uses to the ride in a few days and you'll never look back.

Lots of good tips here^. You might also want to add streamers from your handlebar grips, and big ASS rainbow reflector on the back of your seat(saddle).

IME, drop "road" bars are far and away the most comfortable bars you can put on a bicycle. You get several usable hand positions where on flat bars you get one. Riding drop bars with your hands on the brake hoods is basically the anatomically correct positino for your wrists. Get the correct frame size and don't slam the bars down 6" below the saddle height and you're golden.

[Blaidd Drwg]

drops are gold, set up is trixy is all. discs fix so many problems.

[The Ginger Beard Man]

Made the down payment on a Work-1 today. Picking it up tomorrow.

[Thatcher II]

Made the down payment on a Work-1 today. Picking it up tomorrow.

Googled - aluminum frame, straight bars, gears? If so, smart move. Will be comfortable and quick. Perfect.

[Turdacious]

A local reputable bike shop has their own brand. For $599, they sell a SS/Fixed bike. I don't know if there's a benefit to going a little upmarket, or if this constitutes that:

The bike is also fully compatible with fenders and tires up to 700x28c, or 32c tires without fenders. There are also rear rack mounts on the back, but not the fork.

Decent deal?

How are the roads you'll be riding on and will you be wearing your work clothes while riding? Rougher roads and you'll probably want the 32c tires, wearing work clothes and you'll want fenders.

[Grandpa's Spells]

How are the roads you'll be riding on and will you be wearing your work clothes while riding? Rougher roads and you'll probably want the 32c tires, wearing work clothes and you'll want fenders.

Fenders for sure. I don't know to equate tires with road conditions, or what constitutes "bad" roads, but there's going to be some occasional texture out there.

[Andy83]

All bullshit Spells! First time you get caught in a downpour, or a blinding below zero blizzard, or shot at by a negro gang banger, you'll wish you had gone to a police auction, got one of those $5 bikes, put it in the trash and resumed driving to work!

[Grandpa's Spells]

All bullshit Spells! First time you get caught in a downpour, or a blinding below zero blizzard, or shot at by a negro gang banger, you'll wish you had gone to a police auction, got one of those $5 bikes, put it in the trash and resumed driving to work!

I looked into this. They don't do auctions around here any more.

[Blaidd Drwg]

bad means potholes, sharp pavement edges, construction routes with debris. at your BW a 28c tire is probably ok if you can learn to ride light..Expect to get a few pinch flats.

Here is a fender systems that doesn't afford as much coverage but do go well up over the wheel, not as elegant but a mudflap..(seriously) in the front is golden.



I cannot overstress this point, front wheel, mudflap.

also,got lost in the advices above. I would never recommend a fixed gear on the street except as a training tool. I've logged thousands of fixed gear miles and it's really a PITA even if you're quite good to negotiate shitty drivers, curb edges,sloppy rain etc. A SS is totally different and will remind you of the simplicity of your BMX bike

[Turdacious]

bad means potholes, sharp pavement edges, construction routes with debris. at your BW a 28c tire is probably ok if you can learn to ride light..Expect to get a few pinch flats.

Spells may be better than me, but when I started commuting I didn't know how to ride light. JMO but on a commute the 32c's are a better choice fer a beginner.

[Andy83]

All bullshit Spells! First time you get caught in a downpour, or a blinding below zero blizzard, or shot at by a negro gang banger, you'll wish you had gone to a police auction, got one of those $5 bikes, put it in the trash and resumed driving to work!

I looked into this. They don't do auctions around here any more.

That's just one auctioneer private company. But...
1. Craig's List for used
2. Walmart http://www.walmart.com/browse/bikes-rid ... 73_1085617
3. How about a pair of roller blades and a back pack?

[Blaidd Drwg]

bad means potholes, sharp pavement edges, construction routes with debris. at your BW a 28c tire is probably ok if you can learn to ride light..Expect to get a few pinch flats.

Spells may be better than me, but when I started commuting I didn't know how to ride light. JMO but on a commute the 32c's are a better choice fer a beginner.

True.

32 with fenders is kind of the min for the PNW as we have pretty crap roads. If you ever have a chance, try a bike with schwalbe 2.35" tires..ridiculously huge but once up to speed very smooth (a bit noisy though)

[Grandpa's Spells]

All bullshit Spells! First time you get caught in a downpour, or a blinding below zero blizzard, or shot at by a negro gang banger, you'll wish you had gone to a police auction, got one of those $5 bikes, put it in the trash and resumed driving to work!

I looked into this. They don't do auctions around here any more.

That's just one auctioneer private company. But...
1. Craig's List for used
2. Walmart http://www.walmart.com/browse/bikes-rid ... 73_1085617
3. How about a pair of roller blades and a back pack?

Checking Craigslist daily. Insane markdown from buying new

[Turdacious]

If you ever have a chance, try a bike with schwalbe 2.35" tires..ridiculously huge but once up to speed very smooth (a bit noisy though)

What are the benefits of those?

I know this might be a little out of your area (I know where you live), but how are those for snow and ice?

[Blaidd Drwg]

If you ever have a chance, try a bike with schwalbe 2.35" tires..ridiculously huge but once up to speed very smooth (a bit noisy though)

What are the benefits of those?

I know this might be a little out of your area (I know where you live), but how are those for snow and ice?

Actual benefits most of the time are just being able to run lower tire pressure on really crappy roads. Very difficult to pinch. Like you noted, I think the 32-38c is about all a reasonable person needs but you still need to run decent tire pressure. With bike tires,just like any high perf application, tire pressure is a massive factor in performance. On a MTB downhill, I'd say it's almost as critical as wax for a skier.

Ice is just ice. Whether commuting on 23c rains tires or a big 2.35 schwalbes the drill is the same. It's like riding over slick metal, you just float and hope. Snow? Snow is really fun. When it dumps around here (rare) my long bike is the first thing I get out after playing tokyo drift with the rest of the neighborhood miscreants. I use a very basic knobby pattern that is modeled off a trials/BMX tire.



These on my long bike and snow is just ridiculously easy to ride in until it gets wet and over say 4-5"...again, rare in the PNWet. One dry pavement it's just an irritation.

[Turdacious]

Thanks.